Gear reduction starter failure

Excellent observations! I will pull the JB weld out and see what is behind it. The washer is not broken as you'll see in my picture from a different angle. The larger diameter washers are what the machine shop installed. Would smaller washers make a difference?
I will have the welsh plug hole tapped and threaded for a plug. Anyone know what size plug is needed?
I will pull the oil pan tomorrow so I can replace the oil pan gasket. I'm ordering a full engine gasket set that comes with the rear main seal. I agree with building the oil pressure before starting the engine.
Does the cover(pointed to it) have to be removed to replace the rear main seal?
View attachment 84072

It is the seal carrier.

In looking at the margins of the seal in different pictures where it contacts the crank it looks more than a little gnarly.
 
If that oil seal plate is not leaking, there is no good reasons to remove it. Pull the oil seal, replace it with a known good quality replacement oil seal.

Suspect the only way to really know where the oil gusher is coming from is to pressurize the oil system without running the motor.
The current suspected leaker is the JB "stick"-O patch.. might be ok, might be a gusher... need to test this. Regardless, that kinda "fix" is always suspect.

FYI, to run the oil pump. Remove the block mounted distributor, remove the helical drive gear between the aux shaft that couples the distributor drive and oil pump drive. That helical gear has internal splines. To drive the oil pump solo, this means taking one of these helical gears cutting the helical gear teeth off in a lathe, then making a flex coupler with drive shaft to run the oil pump using a hand drill. The contraption looks like this.

Fiat oil pump drive.jpg


Fiat oil pump drive head.jpg



Bernice
 
If that oil seal plate is not leaking, there is no good reasons to remove it. Pull the oil seal, replace it with a known good quality replacement oil seal.

Suspect the only way to really know where the oil gusher is coming from is to pressurize the oil system without running the motor.
The current suspected leaker is the JB "stick"-O patch.. might be ok, might be a gusher... need to test this. Regardless, that kinda "fix" is always suspect.

FYI, to run the oil pump. Remove the block mounted distributor, remove the helical drive gear between the aux shaft that couples the distributor drive and oil pump drive. That helical gear has internal splines. To drive the oil pump solo, this means taking one of these helical gears cutting the helical gear teeth off in a lathe, then making a flex coupler with drive shaft to run the oil pump using a hand drill. The contraption looks like this.

View attachment 84073

View attachment 84074


Bernice
Would love to do this but I don't have an extra gear or a lathe. Great tip!
 
and I don't think the big washers mean anything directly to do with this problem as they also appear on the water passage closure on the back of the block. Indirectly? Yeah.....
 
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