Converting a dist to none vac advance...

B

Bobr

My Toy
Is the best way to leave the vac dia on....dont like it there.....pull it out and lock the bottom plate. If to lock the bottom plate what is the best way.......

No vac adv....from bottom

Full Vac Adv....

Top view ......
Thanks, Bob:confuse2:
Thought just to remove the vac and put a plate over the opening...but looking at it it needs to be held in place. Does anyone know or an easy way to do so?.......
Hope my pics work or it will Phila to the rescue (again...)
 
Vacuum advance.

By just removing the vacuum motor the 2 plates will shift and cause a lot of problems either running or starting. Most just remove the Vacuum line, but remember that the mechanical portion still will at advance due to the weights and springs in the shaft. If you want a solid locked vacuum plate, I would suggest that you build a tag like the one that is used on the vacuum motor and tack weld it to a cover plate that goes over the hole where you have removed the vacuum motor from. This will give you the option of reinstalling it if you wish at a latter date.

TonyK

Grimsby Ontario Canada.
 
Here Is One Way.

Separate the advance plate from the coil plate by removing the three slotted head screws. The rotate the advance control pin into the advance plate as shown in the modified version of your image. This will fix the advance plate to the coil plate negating any movement of the mechanical advance mechanism.

Make sure a all is properly lined up and re-install the three screws. Put the dizzy back together and it's done. Re-set the ignition timing and all should be good to go.

This is a lesser known feature of the Bosch dizzy used in the X.

 
It's even easier than that......

In Bobr's middle photo of the bottom side of the stack, you see a hole in the lower plate (on the left).

Remove the snap ring on the upper side of the stack, separate the plates, then rotate the upper plate with the drive pin for the vac advance 90* CCW. The drive pin now drops in the hole in the lower plate. No more vacuum advance. Could it be any easier??? Since you rotated the plate exactly 90*, there is no change in timing and the plates are locked together.

You have to get pretty far into the distributor for this mod, but, hey, Bobr is already there.

Now, as to the advisability of vacuum advance versus mechanical only, put me down firmly on the side of running vacuum advance, no matter what the situation. I have about as hot rodded a 1300 motor as you are likely to find on the street, and I run vacuum advance because it works for driveability, performance AND economy.

In my experience, most of the problems attributed to vacuum advance are due to leaky and/or balky vacuum capsules. When I built my Bosch FI distributor, I checked out about six capsules. I used the one that responded freely and with a minimum vacuum signal.

Ciao,
 
Hah! You beat me by 10 minutes, Bernice....

You posted yours while I was busy espousing the advantages of vacuum advance.

Ciao,
 
Ha! that was funny :shock:

I have run this mod on street X's before, it's OK. Not sure if I can recommend this for a typical street car.

It's really a mod for engines that spend most of their life above 4,500 rpm where not much spark advance changes and the advance curve has flatten out.

Mark Plaia said:
You posted yours while I was busy espousing the advantages of vacuum advance.

Ciao,
Click to expand...
 
Running 2 DCNF 40's so vac adv would be tough...

Here is a pic of the completed part......Thanks to ALL! :)
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