Starter issue?

Having some starter issues lately. When the engine is cold it starts just fine. But after a drive and engine is hot starter cranks only for about 1 second and after that you hear a sort of buzz. This happend again today and I got a push start from a nice fella. Engine started without hesitation. So it's not the hot carburator issue which some people experienece.
I thought the starter needs an overhaul. Apperently if the engine turn over it is not the starter (as per youtube).
Did someone have the same problem? If so, what was the solution?
Thanks for your input.
I suspect it's the battery ( even though it's new). It's just stange that it starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when it just has been driven. You would thing the battery should have more juice after a drive then when it sat for a day or two.

There was a thread on something similar recently...

http://xwebforums.com/forum/index.php?threads/27284

You seem to have the "restricted current flow" symptom as there's more effort required to turn the engine over once hot. I'd start with the engine/transmission earth strap as an easy 1st step, so take it off and give the bolts/mount a good clean up - if it's falling apart, then time of a new one.

As mentioned in the other thread, your starter/solenoid may be fine and there's a test described there to eliminate the ignition wiring.

Did the BWM and added a starter relay. So I have plenty of power. Still having the same symptoms. Car starts fine when cold. But when it's hot the starter cranks the engine one for a split second. After that only a buzzing sound from the solenoid (I guess). I just don't get why it works when the engine is cold. Anyone experienced the same? If so, what was the solution?
Cheers

maybe the contacts in the solenoid are old worn and tired and cold it's good enough, hot not? Can go in there are rebuild it but replace the whole mess is ultimately easier.

The BUZZ... is it the solenoid or the starter SPINNING?

If it is the starter spinning... then the solenoid is NOT pulling the gear into the flywheel.

If its the solenoid buzzing... its either the solenoid that needs to be replaced or rebuilt, or something obstructing it "mechanically"...

In any case... its the SOLENOID somewhere, somehow.

Disconnect NEG battery cable, unbolt the three starter mounting bolts, SQUISH the radiator hose and birth the starter... then remove the umbilical wiring.

Place the starter in the front trunk and test with jumpers off the battery. Even if good, I'd pull it down and freshen it all up, including doing an overhaul on the solenoid. Details if needed...

HTH.

Thanks. I'll keep you posted.

Removed the starter today and bench tested it. Everything works as it should. Starter is back in the car. Started fine. Took a test drive. Got back home. Started again 3 more times. Let it sit for an hour. Doesn't start :-(

run straight 12 volts to the solenoid...

the wire from the ignition, might not be giving enough "kick" to make the solenoid do it's job, or the solenoid is going intermittently bad. You can just stick a screwdriver between the ignition terminal, and the big battery terminal. Had one like that, and I used a Bosch relay to power the solenoid directly from battery
oh, yeah, make sure it's not in gear when you try the screwdriver trick, not that I ever had anything like that happened to me

Torbinho, did you check the earth strap like I mentioned originally? An "in place" test like Kevin mentioned is the way to prove your power feed mods are ok - personally I'd use a test wire off the solenoid spade, but hey, needs must

Mr. Torbinho... so the BUZZING has stopped?

If so, do as Kevin and the other guy said.

1. Check ground strap at LR between trans and chassis. DON'T just LOOK at it... take it off and use a wire brush or sand paper and re-torque it tight!

2. If NO change, then try the Brown wire to Red wire short at the ignition switch CONNECTOR and see it is spins. If it does... then problem is in ignition switch or wiring.

3. If it proves to the switch...

• Replace the switch, or...
• Rebuild the switch. or...
• Wire around the switch with a "Push to Start" button.

Some cool ones with relays as well (but not needed generally) can be found on Ebay...

Ground strap was cleaned and looks like new again. Cleaned sanded at connection points as well.
Have a new starter on order as I don't have time right now for rebuilding. I'm sure solenoid needs a rebuild since the starter is spinning ( not the solenoid as mentioned earlier ). For some reason solenoid stops working when hot. Maybe more friction due to expasion. Might do testing as you suggested on the weekend.
I read in another post that someone had the same issue with an overheated solenoid. He replaced the starter and the problem was gone. Wish me luck...

Well, as I am sure you know... there is a mechanical...

side to the Solenoid and its interconnection with the starter. If the problem with this issue is in the starter, replacing the solenoid won't fix it.

Rebuilding a solenoid is simple and FREE and just takes a bit of time and a soldering gun. If you have the time I'll go into detail...

Adding a relay to the starter fixed my hot no-start issue.

On my '78 I took a bosch 30A relay and mounted it on the firewall at the post that secures the fuel lines before they curve to the motor. Then I took the female spade wire that originally connected to the solenoid and put it on the new relay terminal 86. I then made a 14 ga. black ground wire with a female spade to terminal 85 on the relay end and an 1/4" eyelet that grounded on the same stud that now secures the relay.

Next I made a short 10 ga wire with a 5/16" eyelet to the large battery cable post on the starter and a female spade terminal to terminal 30 on the relay. Then last came a 10 ga wire with a female spade terminal from the starter solenoid on one end and a female spade to terminal 87 on the Bosch relay. Took 30 minutes to do.

Now the solenoid switching current only travels thru 16" of 10 ga. wire before energizing the solenoid. It's an instant fix for iffy starter switches and old wiring.

Think about it, prior to making this mod, the solenoid got it's iffy current after travelling thru at least 20 ft of old wire, 3 connectors, and an old ignition switch.

Now it only takes milliamps from that circuit to make the solenoid do it's thing. Problem solved

Have done this mod. No change though.

OK... you did WHAT mod and there was no change?

Assuming you mean adding another solenoid... I would do two things:

1. USE JACK STANDS AND CAUTION... Run a HOT wire from the battery post on the starter while it is installed... and use it to supply voltage directly to the RED wire post on the solenoid. See if it engages and spins the engine. If so... the problem is in the ignition switch and even a solenoid relay will not help if there is no power coming from the ignition switch to operate it.

2. Fixes for this would include repairing, replacing or bypassing the ignition switch... (ala late model "Push-to-start" buttons.)

You can also prove these things using a VOM but I like to see things actually function in place.

HTH... and sorry for your trouble...