Fuel Pump failure - 3rd times NOT a charm!

He doesn't know if the brakes work because the car will not run.:wall: I guess you could put in a new pump run the car and then remove the pump and let set for a few week and then reinstall the pump and see if it runs. If it does then let it set a few more week and see if it runs. You seem to have everything we mentioned covered so I am :confused:

Leave the pump installed - disconnect the (+) terminal

If it still goes dead you know it fuel contamination, otherwise it's the juice supply, Done.

Dead either way, I'd start looking at a higher quality brand of pump

Edit: also, have you checked resistance across the pump terminals ? I'd do a before (and hopefully no more afters) so you can compare values if it does again, since you can't dissect the pump to evaluate for fuel contamination.
 
Fuel pump

AutoZone - gave me a new pump - again. They didn't look too happy about this one and told me they weren't going to warranty it unless I changed the "sock" on the gas tank outlet. I told the A/Z manager that I had drained the tank completely and filtered all the drained gas through a mesh screen funnel and saw NO residue.

After MUCH discussion I think I got him to understand that the problem was not pump failure from debris - it just dies from sitting - not running.

I brought the new pump home and tested it across a battery - works fine - but they all did before entering the "pit of fuel pump despair".

I also bought a clear filter to install between the tank and the pump just in case. I will install the new pump - fire her up and then, disconnect it again (remove + lead). I even thought of installing an "on/off" switch on the positive lead line.

As for the pump quality, maybe a bad batch but it appears to be exactly the same pump that's in my 1985 X and that one works fine.

Stay tuned !

Ed
 
In your situation I would install a "pre-filter" between the tank and pump, to catch any debris. Sounds like what you are doing from here on out.

Make sure your entire fuel supply is fresh, new gas. Old gas can do a number on pumps. But, I suspect there is a fine debris that the pump can pass when fresh and running, but when allowed to settle in the pump locks it up. The pump is both robust and delicate. It's lubricated and cooled by the fuel it pumps, too much debris and it will lock up.
 
My tolerance for fuel pump failures when new is zero. Little ruins a road trip more than a dead fuel pump or related resulting in a dead car on the road side.

If the fuel into the pump feed is clean and the pump motor is not being electrically fried, there is likely a problem with the impeller or related assembly. It is possible to cut the seal off the top of the pump in a lathe and have a good close up look at the innards (been there done this ). IMO, on going replacement of the pump is not the solution, taking the failed pump apart carefully and figuring out why and what caused the failure is a direction towards resolving this problem.

As for fuel pump brands, Bosch Germany or Wallbro USA. Those are it for EFI pumps. These might cost more, but they have a proven record for reliability over the years in our fleet.

Welding current path depends on where the welder's ground is connected and where the welder tip touches the metal to be welded. Items in this conduction path will be subjected to high welding current. To pass current into the device, there must be a send and return path. Basically, follow the ground to welder tip path, that will tell where the current is flowing. The suggestion of disconnecting the V+ terminal to the fuel pump is sound as this would result in cutting off the potential current return path into and out of the fuel pump.

Side note, any welding near a fuel tank is not a good idea due to explosion or fire hazard.


Bernice
 
Fuel Pump summary

OK - new pump is in and tested. Installed a clear "pre" filter between tank and pump.

Added 5 gallons fresh high test and some fuel system cleaner (I had already drained the entire tank and vacuumed out as much as possible - I am pretty sure it was empty-empty.

12.4 volts at the pump when the AFM is open - 0.00 when closed - just as before. No connectivity across the pump terminals (of course).

Car started ran up and ran fine. Shut her down and disconnected the battery.

We'll see what happens next.

Thanks to all who responded - you guys are great.

Ed
 
Now that you have disconnected de battery at least you will see if it is an electrical problem .
I know you written that there is no voltage on it when contact of butt now you will be shure shure
 
Fuel Pump mystery...

I reached the head of Airtex's tech support group this morning and wove my tale of woe for him. He was as mystified as we are as to what was happening.

He agreed that bad fuel would most likely not rot a pump out in just two weeks.

He was very gracious and curious as well and told me if it happens again to ship the pump to them for an autopsy.

They are willing to stand behind their warranty.

Ed
 
Similar Issues

I had a BOSCH OEM replacement fail after 300ish miles.
Replaced with Airtrex... 130ish miles and BLAH
Replaced again with Airtrex same thing.

Thanks to this forum I told an early Ford Caprice ($89) pump would work. No Issues at all!

I think Airtrex had a bad batch. Bosch was just to expensive, when a Walbro would do better for same price.

Tank is clean, pumps all made bearing noises. Rattled when voltage was applied. NO debris.
 
I can highly recommend this pump - also has a lifetime warranty, and it's quiet - unlike any Walbro :)

ScreenShot2014-11-25at91355PM_zps98fde365.png
 
That's because its from Goleta, CA... Well known around...

the world for its Goleta Butterfly Grove... Where Monarchs come home to mess around each year.

http://www.goletabutterflygrove.com/

Kinda like the Swallows returning to San Juan Capistrano I guess...

I wonder what kinda auto parts Capistrano is famous for?
 
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