Anybody install Matt's fiberglass front fender extensions?

Fiatfiend

Fiatfiend

True Classic
I've always been a steel-only guy, and I'll be starting on that pretty soon. How did you install it?

I'm thinking a combination of rivets (with washers) and panel adhesive, but I'd sure love to hear what others have done.

Thanks,
Dave

Pictures of my recent work can be found on my Twitter feed. *davelhudson
 
Fiatfiend said:
I've always been a steel-only guy, and I'll be starting on that pretty soon. How did you install it?

I'm thinking a combination of rivets (with washers) and panel adhesive, but I'd sure love to hear what others have done.

Thanks,
Dave

Pictures of my recent work can be found on my Twitter feed. *davelhudson
Click to expand...

I am not sure if you mean fender flares or air dam, but Matt has a couple of options of flares if that is what you are talking about. I installed the Faza kit which is really a combination of the rivet fronts and screw on rears (with the "box" side scoop).

Here is a pic of the front rivet on:

IMG_00140.jpg


I didn't take any pics of the metal work (tons for the rear) really because it was very easy however I DID cut out the "stock" small flare plus about an 1". I needed to fit the proper wheels/tires I installed (not the ones in the pic, but 13x8s I installed later).
 
Whoops

I mean the front fender connectors that link the fender to the chin spoiler or air dam.
 
Last edited:
I went and typed extensions again -- good heavens

I'm an idiot.

Yes, exactly. Connectors.

I wanted steel, but he didn't have any. He sold me on these. There are some good points and some bad ones. I think I'm committed to them, I guess. But want to do it right.

I did all the bodywork on my classic mustang with Eastwood's kit.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html

But that was steel patch panels.

Even with fiberglass, it seems like you should have some kind of hard attachment like a rivet or screw, though.
 
Fiatfiend said:
I'm an idiot.

Yes, exactly. Connectors.

I wanted steel, but he didn't have any. He sold me on these. There are some good points and some bad ones. I think I'm committed to them, I guess. But want to do it right.

I did all the bodywork on my classic mustang with Eastwood's kit.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-no-weld-panel-repair-kit.html

But that was steel patch panels.

Even with fiberglass, it seems like you should have some kind of hard attachment like a rivet or screw, though.
Click to expand...

Maybe your rivets could be "strategically" placed and hidden?
 
Oh sure

They'd be hidden. Underneath or where a flange meets a flange. I'm a little worried about the rivet cracking or pulling through even with a washer added.
 
My .02

I would only use rivets for locating. Fiberglass if done correctly is extremely strong. Just make sure when you lay it down, there is a good rough surface for it to work with. When I say rough, I mean nothing rougher than 350grit. 80 grit is a big no! unless you are dealing with very large boats and fiberglass an inch or more in depth!

Learn the difference between mat and roving. One looks great, the other looks like hell, but they both have different advantages in terms of strength and finish properties.

The best part about fiberglass, if you make a mistake, cut/sand it out and start again!

On the Rotary X, the entire body is Fiberglass with no rivets or anything else. I made a custom hard top which is attached only with resin and fiberglass.

One last note, don't go super thin, it will crack and always wear breathing protection. Fiberglass is nasty crap.

Hope this helps.
 
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