1967 Fiat 850 Coupe - RetroRides Build

Re: PBS 280ST cam lash specs

He'll be installing... a tuned 903 with a PBS staggered timing ST-280 cam. We think the valve clearance on these cams is .010 intake and .012 exhaust. Would anyone know what the PBS spec was? :hmm:

I finally got a reply via "the pipeline", the valve lash on the 280ST cam should be set at .015 on both intake & exhaust. I was close on my .014 in/ex estimate, but now we have a definitive answer straight from the source! :thumbsup:
 
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I finally got a reply via "the pipeline", the valve lash on the 280ST cam should be set at .015 on both intake & exhaust. I was close on my .014 in/ex estimate, but now we have a definitive answer straight from the source! :thumbsup:

Jeff, Thanks for getting the message through. :clap: :headbang: :excited:

I think staggered timing is an interesting concept and if you ever got a lecture on it from PBS, you'd think it's the best discovery ever made for Fiat cams. Paul, Clark and Fred at PBS were always ready to take one of your old cams and turn it into a PBS Staggered Timing Cams.

My lash is currently set to what ever Al Cosentino mentions in his 850 Competition Manual, which I think is about half of what PBS designed for their 280ST cam.
Al Cosentino/FAZA is probably rolling in his grave :shh:, since I'm using a cam which he called "junk from the California cam grinders".

PBS book
Wouldn't it be interesting to read a book about all the creativity and race history behind PBS. I sure hope someone volunteers soon since someone from PBS is still is around to tell the story. Here is a picture of one of the PBS brothers with his wife at Riverside International Raceway parking in the mid 80's. Looks like he's giving me a "bottoms Up" or "cheers", but I sure can't remember what we where drinking in that dusty parking lot. Always had a good time dealing with PBS, except with Clark with his constant need to machine anything he could get his hands on. I still have the set of hi-compression pistons he shaved the tops off of. I told Clark I was not ready to use them, but he machined the tops off of them anyway. I always left parts with PBS so they could pic the best for my assembly. I asked why he went ahead and machined them and he said Fred was available so he put him to work, since they were unusable with the Hi-top.

This PBS Bianchina was converted to all late model 126? drive train as you can see from the 126 steel wheels.
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Just a note...

John,
When you have an "update", it'd be better to post it as a "Reply" to this thread (or even make it a separate new thread) rather than just editing the original post every time like you've been doing. I say this because if you "Edit" a post on this forum, it doesn't automatically re-queue it for folks to see as "new stuff". So unless someone is constantly re-reading your stuff, they'd never know something new has been posted since the last time they read this thread.

If you post new stuff as a "Reply", this thread automatically gets bumped back up to the top of the list, and your new post (Reply) will show up if someone is using the "New Posts" link-button at the top of every forum page. It also makes things a LOT easier to follow!

We have an entire section here on Xweb dedicated to just our rear-engined cars - don't be afraid to use it! :)
 
Sept. event

We were invited to car show in Irwindale Ca late Sept 2014... Mike Pellagrinos Racer and my Coupe waiting for Sam and Jeff who found a way not to bring their Fiats and travel in a German car :mad2: to the Irwindale car show. I'm sure they'll do better next time.

Hey, hey...hold on there! Sam initially told me we'd be driving his 850 Spider. When I got there he said it still had an issue with the accelerator pump diaphragm, to which I countered with "Clean your idle jets". He didn't, & since his 850 wouldn't run right, he wanted to take his GTI instead. With my 128 being filthy from hauling stuff all week, I opted not to take it to the Show & just ride with him instead. So that's how the whole German-car thing came about. At least I drove all the way to/from the rendezvous point in an Italian car - that counts for something, doesn't it? :nana:

I was rather amused when we got back after the event & we were all checking out Sam's 850. When Sam told Mike the car wasn't running right, & Mike dove right in & pulled the idle jets, cleaned 'em, put 'em back in & the car ran fine, I really had to fight myself from blurting out an "I TOLD YOU SO, IDIOT!". :laugh:

(I'd been telling him to do this for the last 3-4 months, but he kept insisting it was that pump diaphragm). :wall:
 
Hey, hey...hold on there! Sam initially told me we'd be driving his 850 Spider. When I got there he said it still had an issue with the accelerator pump diaphragm, to which I countered with "Clean your idle jets". He didn't, & since his 850 wouldn't run right, he wanted to take his GTI instead. With my 128 being filthy from hauling stuff all week, I opted not to take it to the Show & just ride with him instead. So that's how the whole German-car thing came about. At least I drove all the way to/from the rendezvous point in an Italian car - that counts for something, doesn't it? :nana:

I was rather amused when we got back after the event & we were all checking out Sam's 850. When Sam told Mike the car wasn't running right, & Mike dove right in & pulled the idle jets, cleaned 'em, put 'em back in & the car ran fine, I really had to fight myself from blurting out an "I TOLD YOU SO, IDIOT!". :laugh:

(I'd been telling him to do this for the last 3-4 months, but he kept insisting it was that pump diaphragm). :wall:

I just cleaned my idle jet yesterday, the day after the Irwindale event :eek: and it needed cleaning for over 3 weeks. Yes, that means it hasn't idled correctly during the entire trip to Irwindale, but a bad idle in an 850 won't stop me from using it. Some cars have it worse than others I've owned. My 850's get Dirty-Idle-Jet-Syndrome every 6-9 months.
 
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John,
When you have an "update", it'd be better to post it as a "Reply" to this thread (or even make it a separate new thread) rather than just editing the original post every time like you've been doing. I say this because if you "Edit" a post on this forum, it doesn't automatically re-queue it for folks to see as "new stuff". So unless someone is constantly re-reading your stuff, they'd never know something new has been posted since the last time they read this thread.

If you post new stuff as a "Reply", this thread automatically gets bumped back up to the top of the list, and your new post (Reply) will show up if someone is using the "New Posts" link-button at the top of every forum page. It also makes things a LOT easier to follow!

We have an entire section here on Xweb dedicated to just our rear-engined cars - don't be afraid to use it! :)

Jeff, Thanks for the advise and heads-up. In this case I should have started a new post, and I'll probably move that info to a new post along with MORE Pics when I get time.
I purposely don't create new posts sometimes, just because I want OTHERS to have a chance to get their post on top for some more views and activity. :shh:
The views on this 850 Super Coupe thread are overwhelming all the other ones by thousands of views, and that is not my intention. I do like that 850s are getting some well deserved attention for once.
I want others to get enthused and show us what's on their mind or new tricks and ideas we could all use without me getting in the way.:)
On the other hand, a forum like this is meant for information and communication with seemingly endless storage, so who ever has something to tell, then why not use it.
Maybe you'll be seeing more activity from me on this forum. :pc:
 
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Getting ready for an oil change in the coupe and thought I'd share what I've been using and why. I try to use motorcycle oil because it doesn't have to meet EPA requirements for fuel economy and catalytic converter longevity. Motorcycle oil still contains (must verify on your own) more Zinc and Phosphorous which flat tappet cams love; somewhere around 1100-1200 PPM zinc. Don't panic if your using whatever you found on the store self, because it'll still work well on a broken-in motor and normal RPM and abuse. I "feel" better when I'm screaming along at around 7-8000 RPM knowing what my oil is capable of.
Recently I found this old box with Kendell and Pennzoil at a swap meet for a good price of $2.00 Qt. The new Castrol 4T is what I've used when I need something quick and off the store self. The old single 30 weight Kendell still has an API rating of SL which still qualifies it for 1000 PPM. Keep in mind even some SN and SM oils may contain higher levels depending on Government/EPA policy. That is the situation with a 20/50 oil where it doesn't have to comply, while those Ecology or Green oils have to comply to be catalytic friendly and low drag thin oils. But not all companies maintain higher zinc for 20/50 oils, so this all gets complicated.
Kendell and Valvoline have some excellent information (see websites) where they show zinc levels in all their oils. On some of their charts you'll will see 20/50 will be the only oil with more zinc and the rest will fall into the standard of 800-850 PPM.
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SM is the newest designation for saving catalytic converters with only 800 PPM Zinc (ppm=parts per million). Converters hate Zinc and Car Manufactures push oil companies very hard to reduce zinc so they can avoid warrantee claims on clogged converters. Manufactures have also determined that most of modern cars are running roller cams and don't need that much zinc anyway.

SL, SJ, SH automotive motor oil all have 1000 PPM Zinc.
Motor cycle oil 10-40 & 20-50 usually has 1100-1200 PPM Zinc.
Single grade motor oils don't have to comply with the latest API standards and may contain more zinc, but you'd have to get it tested or Google till you find someone with test results.
Below is some Motorcycle oil with the Old (1993) SG API rating still used being used in 2014.
I always like to look into API service levels and Zinc/Phosphorous contents in motor oil when I can. I'm probably not going to write much about oil as it's all over the internet already. I just thought I'd share, in simple terms what are probably the best choices for Fiats with solid lifer cams.
Here's a jug of Castrol I purchased a few months ago which shows how oil manufactures meet API compliance by using high zinc mix (API SG 1993) in motor oil sold today. You will not find an Automotive motor oil off the shelf easily or not at all with an API rating of SG. :sad: Government policy excludes motorcycle oils from having to comply with the new SN rating. That's why my simple approach is just buy Motorcycle oil of any brand, as it will most likely be API SG.
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Deep Dish Steelies

SEVEN inches Wide with 185/60 Tires on an 850 Coupe.
I only have two of these at this point and will give them a try on the car before having a couple more made. Yes, I know...Campy's or Cromodoras would be better since they are so light and soooo cool, but pricing a set of 7 Inch Campy's will cost too many pay checks.
With custom made steel wheels, the offset can be put wherever you want it while on cast alloy wheels your stuck with whatever you paid for. I have machined a cast set of Campy's (on the hub mounting surface) to give more fender clearance on my 600, but that was only about 1/2 millimeter. Still wasn't enough :hmm2:
The wheels just got painted and will need to dry for a few days before mounting on the new rubber from OnLine Tire.
CLICK on the Picture to see More :) or go here http://retrorides.proboards.com/post/1997280/thread
 
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SEVEN inches Wide :eek: with 185/60 Tires on an 850 Coupe.

7"? IIRC, probably the widest you'd want to go with 185/60's would be 6.5". Maybe a 195 or 205 instead for 7"?

I only have two of these at this point and will give them a try on the car before having a couple more made...These are some of the best Looking wheels Fiat used on x19's and maybe other models.

Not really my cup of tea, but they do look better when widened as you've done. :wink2: Unfortunately (as I'm sure you've found out), these are probably the heaviest of the various 13" steel wheels that Fiat made for the 1970's-1980's USA cars. :sad:

If you want to try a 4-spoke look, I have a set of the OEM Fiat "4 Leaf Clover" type steel wheels as used on the X1/9, 124, 131, etc. that you can have. They might look pretty good widened to 6"-6.5", as well as fitting your 185 tires a little better. Pretty sure I have some of the black plastic F/I/A/T centercaps, too. Chrome trim rings are optional (I have none). These are the wheels that I have (sans tires):

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Not really my cup of tea, but they do look better when widened as you've done. :wink2: Unfortunately (as I'm sure you've found out), these are probably the heaviest of the various 13" steel wheels that Fiat made for the 1970's-1980's USA cars.
:) Thanks Jeff.

I forgot about the clover leafs; they would have to be be my favorites when it comes to stock Fiat wheels. :love:
The worst I'd say where those on the Strada with 4 dimples at the lug bolts holes.
Do you think the clover-leafs are lighter? Wonder if the center is lighter or the rim is :hmm:
Like you inferred, We don't know if it makes a big difference what style wheel center you choose when you widen the wheel. The deep offset makes just about any center look interesting. Here are some other examples I've seen on the Web:

http://www.stelvio.dk/product_detail.asp?mode=master&maID=260

http://www.stelvio.dk/product_detail.asp?mode=master&maID=31

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8GwvkAcyDHk/TsEL-DQnG2I/AAAAAAAAMFk/Fz2Xcud00I4/s1600/147_7.jpg


These wheels I'm refinishing here I found at One of the French-Italian car shows in Van Nuys, so I didn't get to choose the center, but I liked the fact they were already widened. If those clover leafs are the best ticket for reducing weight, I'll have try some out; We can never have enough wheels, right :wink2: When are you going to part with those MoMo wheels on your 128 Wagon; Let me guess :pigsfly:
 
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I forgot about the clover leafs; they would have to be my favorites when it comes to stock Fiat wheels. :love: Do you think the clover-leafs are lighter?

I was thinking they're lighter, so more along the lines of saving any unsprung weight, while at the same time maybe being a little more...stylish? (they look much better with the 4 inserts painted black or dark grey than all silver as in my photo).


If those clover leafs are the best ticket for reducing weight, I'll have try some out...

I don't know about "best ticket", but you're welcome to them. :) Do you want me to bring them with me to the BFI show?


When are you going to part with those MoMo wheels on your 128 Wagon; Let me guess :pigsfly:

Yeah, ummm...no. Not gonna happen. :no: :laugh:

Some day (year, decade, whatever) I'll get around to setting up the 128 as the Lombardi version like I've wanted to, & these wheels are key to that particular set-up (ie: it's what inspired me to search for the wheels in the first place).

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Tire Valve Stem Install

Paint has been drying for a week so I thought it would good to start the tire install with the installation of valve stems. These are Trans-Dapt #4108 chrome stems from old stock I had in my inventory. Now I looked to get a few more and they are not as heavy duty, so I'll probably have to go on Ebay for something equivalent or just get basic rubber stems. These valve stems are 1"x.453 for this wheel, which might be the same for all Fiat wheels.
I've been changing my own tires for a few years now using a couple tire irons and 12 Ton hydraulic Press with a fitting/foot to act as a bead breaker. Doing all this manually allows you to select the valve stem, instead of whatever the tire store happens to have on hand. Changing tires isn't as bad as it seems. I trained myself by watching guys in our local junk yards break down tires in less than a minute using a couple screwdrivers and then I watch Utube videos for the tricks.

Sometimes tire shops will install super tall 2" long valve stems cause that's all the worker has next to his machine.
Other times I don't get new ones included with the job or have to pay for a basic rubber stem.
Tire changes can be VERY frustrating, from the price, ($80 for a set of 4 and mandated disposal fees) or getting some gorilla with an impact wrench on your Campy wheels or bolts :mad:
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Note how thick the steel is on this valve stem and the lack of lock nuts on the outside of the rim (inside the tire). These are very robust stems and can be tightened without removing the tire.
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DiDato deep dish wheels have a non standard "smaller" diameter center hole. The DiDato wheels would never fit on those post style tire changing machines. Tire store staff would hate me since they end up changing tires by Hand. :sad:
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Finally mounted some 185/60 Tires that I had available. I mounted both tires on these rims in under 20 minutes using only an HF tire iron and lots if water/soap mixture. Since they are a bit too wide for the rims, it did take some finesse to get them to take air. I remember the same situation with the the 175/60's when they would only take air after tightening a nylon web belt around them to get the lip to snug down on the wheel and get a seal.
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This location is in Gardena California at the blimp hanger. Oct 2014
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I can't really say which wheel style I like better, but I think the grey color seems to suit the car too. Maybe a larger tire wouldn't hurt.
I like all the options when you go with steel wheels since you can choose the width, center style and color. The most you can do for alloy wheels is maybe the color if they're paintable. Don't get me wrong, I would love a set of Campys or wide BWA's but they are expensive, hard to fix and hard to find.
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Distributor Build Up

The factory method to lubricate the distributor shaft (from what I understand) was a prelubed piece of felt under a washer above the bushing. Here I'm trying to give access to the bushing for a shot of your favorite lube.
To drill the hole, I flattened a spot out on the lip to give the drill bit a flat spot to dig into. Then from the outside of the housing I drilled a small hole, big enough for a typical spray tube nozzle.
After drilling the hole I reinstalled the felt and peened the washer back in place. I don't think the felt washer is really needed anymore and most of the time they fall apart on diss-assembly anyway.
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Another way to lube the bushing is a grease fitting or zerk, but I thought a little hole would be less noticeable than a grease fitting. These bushings are probably supposed to be oiled for the life of the bushing, something like Oilite (oil impregnated bronze) brand is designed to do. I've just seen too much wear on bushings and scratches on the shaft to believe any of that, so adding a little lube every few thousand miles via a little drilled hole probably won't hurt.
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This is only a couple ways to renew your bushings by using common VW starter bushings. One is thin walled and one is thick.The original bushing is shown with the reamer. Part numbers for the bushings are visible in this picture. 113-301-156 is for converting a 12 volt to 6 volt Trans/Starter and it has an ID much smaller than Fiat's .490 distributor shaft. The outer Diameter seems identical to Fiats OD on the factory bushing. Both are usable, just depends on how you want to approach it.
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Here is the thin bushing pressed into the reamed-out original bushing. The thin bushing has the best inner diameter fit on the shaft for any of the 3 distributors Fiat 850's came with. The OD is what is not ideal and the quickest way I had to make it work was to ream out the original worn bushing.
This approach did remove all the slop/play the shaft had and now the ignition timing doesn't seem to jump around like it used to.
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These idea's started with Mr John Griffith of Le Grand fame. Here he is uncovering the one-off chassis he still owns.
He dug-up an old VW starter bushing out of his inventory in an attempt to help out on this distributor problem.
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This is a picture-of-a-Picture, but it's the best I can do for now. It's a Le Grand Race car which often ran 600/850 power.
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Here is a different version with the famous Le Grand wheels.
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The thick bushing I didn't use, but it does have the same OD as the bottom of a late Marelli where the ID would have to be drilled or reamed out to something close to 1/2" or to be exact .495. I've seen the use of a bushing in the bottom of the distributor housing to give extra support to a top worn-out bushing. Some rebuilders may have used this practice as I can't tell if the factory ever used two bushings in one housing.
The shaft on all three distributors Fiat 850's came with (French and both Italian) is .490". This odd size ruins the possibility of using any .500" bearings as they fit too loose for everything I tried. 12mm is too tight and 12.5 is too hard to find. Custom machining seems to be the only way to achieve renewing these distributors. At least the early Marelli with the advance on top gives you access to the bushing for lubrication. If your lucky, maybe the previous owner of the engine happened to lube that hidden bushing. :sad:
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Since this FIRST attempt at re-bushing the distributor I've found a 12mm ID needle roller bearing and Oilite bronze bushing that might work out better.
They are all on order now from various vendors, so when they do arrive, I will share all the information right here. The VW starter bushing approach was just a quick way to start experimenting with this trouble spot for 850's.
 
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Ouch.

(Yes, that's a crack in my housing; Currently looking for a replacement)

Ugh, I've seen this before. It usually happens when unknowing 850 owners use the distributor as hand-grip point when lifting &/or lugging an 850 engine around during installation, removal &/or in storage/transport. I found quite a few distributor bodies cracked like this at Mille Motori where "someone" used to push/pull/drag/yank the old core 850 engines around in the storage rooms using only the distributor housing as a grip/handle. They're just not made to take that kind of physical abuse! :sad:

I may have a bare housing for you. Is this a Ducellier or a late Marelli unit? (It looks to be a late Marelli, just want to verify) I could bring it & the cloverleaf wheels with me next Sunday (assuming you're attending?). I also found an early 600 trans cluster-shaft unit (the hollow type), used but in good shape & probably better than how you described yours as being - I'll bring that along, too. :italia:

Would love to hear/see more on the needle-bearing fitment...can they handle the rpm's?
 
Ugh, I've seen this before. It usually happens when unknowing 850 owners use the distributor as hand-grip point when lifting &/or lugging an 850 engine around during installation, removal &/or in storage/transport. I found quite a few distributor bodies cracked like this at Mille Motori where "someone" used to push/pull/drag/yank the old core 850 engines around in the storage rooms using only the distributor housing as a grip/handle. They're just not made to take that kind of physical abuse! :sad:

I may have a bare housing for you. Is this a Ducellier or a late Marelli unit? (It looks to be a late Marelli, just want to verify) I could bring it & the cloverleaf wheels with me next Sunday (assuming you're attending?). I also found an early 600 trans cluster-shaft unit (the hollow type), used but in good shape & probably better than how you described yours as being - I'll bring that along, too. :italia:

Would love to hear/see more on the needle-bearing fitment...can they handle the rpm's?


The distributor is a late Marelli where it's been mishandled or a re builder cracked it by not supporting it properly when pressing out the bushings for a rebuild. I've had to straighten this one out as it was cracking my rotor. Once the housings crack, they position the cap off-axis and the rotor will hit the distributor cap. I shattered 2 rotors until I straightened it out enough in a vise. Could really use another one so I could stop carrying a spare rotor around in the car :whistle::sad:.
The 600 transaxle gear cluster would come in handy too since my 1st gear teeth are in bad shape. I just found a set of clover leafs under a pile of other junk, so I hope you can keep those for another time/person.
I'm gonna weigh the x19 wheels and clover leafs to see what the weight difference is. They both seem too heavy to me as they are, but when they get widened, they get even heavier. I'll let you know what I find in the weight difference.

I'll be at the El Monte 850 event For-Sure. See you there :)

I wonder who else in the area would like to join us?

If you are someone who might be able to join us, LET ME know via PM and I'll add you to our group email.


The roller bearing idea isn't looking too good so far. I've tried 1/2" and 12mm needle rollers and they are too big or too small. I think a 12.5mm might be the right size without having to resort to machining the distributor shaft to fit the 12mm bearing. Also, after visiting a few bearing specialists, I've also learned that a roller bearing can damage a shaft if it's not hardened properly. At this time, I don't know how to determine if an 850 distributor shaft is hardened for use with a roller bearing or where to find a 12.5 mm ID bearing. So for now, I'd say sticking with a bronze bushing is the way to go.

Here's the 1/2" needle bearing along with a selection of bronze bushings. The thin bronze bushing is what I'm using now which is stuffed in the old worn-out Fiat bushing. With the proper reamers and machining equipment, things could be done with a much more sano finish than what I did.
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The distributor is a late Marelli...Could really use another one so I could stop carrying a spare rotor around in the car :whistle::sad:.

I know I have at least one late Marelli unit. In fact, it's the only late Marelli distributor I have, so I'll bring it along on Sunday.


The 600 transaxle gear cluster would come in handy too since my 1st gear teeth are in bad shape.

Is this one better than the one you have? Or worse?




I'll be at the El Monte 850 event For-Sure. See you there :) I wonder who else in the area would like to join us? If you are someone who might be able to join us, LET ME know via PM and I'll add you to our group email.

D'oh! Thanks for reminding me, I almost forgot I was going to invite another 850 Coupe owner who (I think?) lives over by Mike. I'll shoot him a PM/email tonight. :italia:


The roller bearing idea isn't looking too good so far. I've tried 1/2" and 12mm needle rollers and they are too big or too small. I think a 12.5mm might be the right size without having to resort to machining the distributor shaft to fit the 12mm bearing. Also, after visiting a few bearing specialists, I've also learned that a roller bearing can damage a shaft if it's not hardened properly. At this time, I don't know how to determine if an 850 distributor shaft is hardened for use with a roller bearing or where to find a 12.5 mm ID bearing. So for now, I'd say sticking with a bronze bushing is the way to go.

What about using a roller (ball) bearing, instead? A bearing assembly that slides (or is pressed) onto the distributor shaft itself, like a (car) generator bearing or something small like that? Didn't the 1000TCR use a roller-bearing type distributor? (or was that just the camshaft ends?). That way there's no worry about shaft-hardening issues (haha - no pun intended). :grin:
 
I know I have at least one late Marelli unit. In fact, it's the only late Marelli distributor I have, so I'll bring it along on Sunday.
The late Marelli will find good use on the Coupe :headbang: Thanks :excited:


Is this one better than the one you have? Or worse?
Them TEETH look good enough :) Mine where half chewed off when I built my tranny. I'll have to admit, occasionally I do forget my 600 has a non-synchro 1st gear.:wall: So I bet some of the teeth are even worse by now. :shh:


Here's a "selfie" during a build of a 600 transaxle on the garage floor a while back. I don't remember why I took the picture, but I thought it would be fitting for this post and to encourage more Fiat owners to go get busy too. :grin:
Maybe someone will dig up some factory tools for transmission building to get me off the floor during my next rebuild. :doh: I especially love those factory tools for setting pinion depth :love:
My 600 in this picture was running it's original TA with that horrible 8-43 final drive ratio. The TA on the floor in front of me has an Abarth 9/41 Ring & Pinion which is in the car now.
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D'oh! Thanks for reminding me, I almost forgot I was going to invite another 850 Coupe owner who (I think?) lives over by Mike. I'll shoot him a PM/email tonight. :italia:
Always nice to get more 600/850 owners together.



What about using a roller (ball) bearing, instead? A bearing assembly that slides (or is pressed) onto the distributor shaft itself, like a (car) generator bearing or something small like that? Didn't the 1000TCR use a roller-bearing type distributor? (or was that just the camshaft ends?). That way there's no worry about shaft-hardening issues (haha - no pun intended). :grin:
A standard bearing with an inner sleeve would be ideal. The problem is the housing isn't thick enough to handle the OD of a bearing with an inner sleeve, at least from what I know of. I'm trying to find a needle bearing with no inner sleeve to reduce the outer diameter. Intention is to do less machining in opening up the housing to accept the bearing.
By the time this gets so complicated to modify a Fiat distributor, it will probably be less work to get some aftermarket Hi Performance distributor modified to work on an 860/600. MSD made a few distributors for 850's, but more as a prototype from what I understand, so only a few were made. I think I've only seen one in my lifetime. Marelli Plex distributors are another option, but they still can have bushing issues too.
Ball bearing distributors have a more "meaty" neck/housing on them than the "pencil neck" of our 850 distributors. I'm always trying to engineer something which requires the least amount of work and fabrication, where where even my distributor bushing idea is stretching the limits of my tool/talent access. Might be time to hire a machinist as soon as I can let loose with the $85 hour rate they require. :whistle:
It would probably take less hours for a machine shop to modify a 4 cylinder MSD racing distributor for an MG or similar to fit a Fiat than it would cost to modify a standard Marelli with all the goodies like bearings and stuff.
 
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850 distributors...

Always nice to get more 600/850 owners together.

So far there's the 5 of us (as before) + 1-2 others I invited. :)

Which reminds me...while looking in storage for the late 850 Marelli distributor you wanted, I came across a few "hybrid" 850 distributors I'd forgotten I had. These were made using an 850 Marelli distributor housing base & lower shaft grafted onto the bottom of Yugo & late X1/9 Bosch EI distributors - the poor mans equivalent of the A112 Marelli "Plex" EI set-up, but FAR more reliable than the electronic ignition "kits" sometimes offered by Crane/Allison/MSD/etc. & still easy to get parts for. Milton Simon currently has a similar setup for sale on eBay made from a VW Rabbit Bosch distributor, which oddly enough, is the exact same car I've been looking at in the junkyards to use as a possible "donor" (the VW Bosch EI components are nearly the same as the Yugo & X1/9, but the housing & wiring are slightly different - the housing being the key component here).

I'd like to get my hands on the VW unit, as its internals **may** very well fit within the body of the 850 Ducellier distributor, thereby saving the need for any major housing/shaft machining (maybe just a little lathe work to fit components inside). Amazingly, the VW-Yugo-X1/9 Bosch distributor cap fits the 850 Ducellier almost perfectly! So theoretically you might have a "modern" Bosch electronic ignition-equipped 850 distributor, with readily-available replacement parts (ala junkyards or regular auto parts chain stores, depending on your need) and the black/orange Bosch EI coil for this can be found in nearly every European car in the junkyards (VW, Porsche, BMW, Volvo, etc.).

With the topic of re-bushing the 850 distributors still fresh in mind, & the stuff I noted above, maybe a little "Tech Session" on 850 distributors would be a fitting topic for this weekends' get-together? I'll bring the stock early/late 850 Marelli units, an 850 Ducellier unit, the A112 Marelli Plex EI, the 2 850/Bosch EI hybrids, the Yugo Bosch EI & the late X1/9 Bosch EI. If we're lucky, Sam's friend/shopmate Brandon might have a VW distributor on hand for us to play with, too (he has a Series 1 Scirocco racecar).

Oh, & I'll bring that old 500(?) distributor I have - it has a neat little oil-filler pipe on the side (with a tiny little Monza-style flip-cap!) that might give us some ideas on how to keep the 850 unit lubed inside (thinking of the pic you showed here with the hole drilled in the side of your 850 distributor housing). Très chic! :italia:
 
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Got pics?

Any possibility of pics of some of these assemblies?

I'm going to bring a table to our Sunday event, & have all of the distributors that I noted laid out for easy viewing. This would probably the best photo-opp for an attendee with a decent digital camera. ::cough::John::cough:: :whistle::grin:
 
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