Need to replace rear main seal

carl

True Classic
Looks like a leaking rear main seal is the source of my oil leak. it almost seems easier to drop the whole drivetrain and separate on the garage floor than to try pulling just the trans with the motor left in the car.

Thoughts?
 
On an X1/9 you can get the best of both worlds by supporting the engine with a jack, removing the crossbar, and letting the flywheel end of the engine hang down.
 
Seems like extra work for not much benefit. Heating/cooling, fuel, exhaust, and electrical all having to be disconnected... I would just pull the trans and leave the motor in. You can pull the whole left suspension and axle as a unit (after swaybar, tie rod and brake caliper are unbolted). Then the trans will come out once its ancillary bits are disconnected (don't forget the pass side axle boot). Getting the trans to go back in can be a pain but I have had good luck by aligning the clutch with a pilot during assembly and then using a floor jack to support the trans as it is installed. Making sure the tin shield has been installed behind the flywheel and doesn't get misaligned is usually my problem!
 
trans

OK, you talked me into it, I'll leave the engine in place. I guess worst case scenario is if it really fights me on reinstall I can then drop the motor and assemble on the ground.

carl
 
well...

I confess I have never done a RMS on a Fiat, but I have done more than my share on FWD cars. the one thing I have learned is don't be stubborn. If you have access to a manual, follow it. Soooo many times i thought "It would be quicker to just...." and in almost every case I end up doing it the way the manual suggests... and it takes less time. Hard lesson after many years banging my head on a hoist.

That said, if you have access to a proper transverse engine support, it can make these jobs a lot easier

https://c1521972.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/img/news/20150827114529_large.jpg
 
Not that I think you need it on An X.

When I started my working life I was a transmission R&R teck and their were many FWD car's that said they needed that engine hoist. But we only used a long 4x4 with 2x4 block's to lift it up a little. And draped a chain over the 4x4 and bolted to the motor.

Those engine hoists are spendy and unless you are using them a LOT not really needed or worth the $$
 
I did mine last year. You probably should redo the oil pan gasket too since you have to disturb it if you end up pulling the whole seal carrier out. Something is still leaking on mine so I didn't do it right.
 
oil pan

The oil pan seal is only a year old as I had to replace the pan when I prepped this motor for conversion to a 128 from an X. I usually replace engine seals but the sheet metal screw method which leaves the seal carrier in place.

The big lesson here is that when you have a motor of unknown history sitting on a stand or on your floor, REPLACE THE FRONT AND REAR SEALS!

If nothing else this gives me a chance to install the flywheel the right way as I had no idea it had two positions that fitthe offset flywheel bolts and of course I got it 180 out so could not see the timing mark.
 
not

I'll disagree... mine was about $100 new (10 years ago), and I used it often enough that was no issue, being able to raise and lower an engine by fractions of an inch to make it fit are great (and I'm thinking 128 not an X-19) You should be able to borrow or rent one cheap.
 
Back
Top