Carb replacement for DHSA

JimD

JimD

Waiting for Godot...
Moderator
My 1972 124 Special has a Weber DHSA carb (at least that's what I read on the base) that has seen better days. I have searched for "Weber DHSA" and no one seems to have these new anymore. There are rebuild kits for a DHSA 26/34 or 28/36. I need to see if I can find info that on my carb. Since Pierce doesn't carry the DHSA carb, I figured the DHSA may have been superseded by a newer model. So before I attempt to rebuild the current carb, is there a better choice for a replacement carb?

Looking at the Pierce Manifold website I see there are three 32/36 progressive carbs to choose from. DFEV(electric choke), DGEV(electric choke), and a DGV(manual choke). The current DHSA has a manual choke, so a manual choke isn't a problem. An electric choke will require some new wiring, but hopefully that ins't too hard to accomplish.

Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks!
 
Euro 124 specials ran a 32DCOF (or derivative) 2 barrel simultaneous side draft carb ... I have a few manifolds... pierce has new 32dcof carbs.

SteveC
 
Thanks Steve

I don't see the 32DCOF on the Pierce web site, but I looked at the DCO and it may be fancier than what I need. I was hoping to find a bolt on that was similar to the DHSA.

The side draft style does look very cool though. I like it. :pimp:
 
The DGV would likely be your best bet as a replacement carb. It's a fairly bullet-proof carb that is easy to adapt to various cars & gives little trouble, sorta one of those "set it & forget it" carbs. They're used on all kinds of conversions on older Euro (& some USA) cars, pretty widely offered by Pierce & others. :2c:

The 32DCOF was standard-issue on the earlier 1100cc 124 Sedans, but obviously requires a different manifold & air cleaner unit. For a while, Pierce offered new 32DCOF carbs for only ~$60 each, but I was told they were a slightly different version than what came on the Fiats.
 
Looks like they sold out of the cheap dcof carbs.... I knew they were under $100au for a new carb, but that was maybe 12 months back ... might pay to ask them if they have a seconds/ returns carb ...and put a kit thru is and clean it up yourself.

Just in case anyone isn't sure what we are talking about...

carb looks like this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIAT-500-11...d6155c1&pid=100033&rk=2&rkt=4&sd=290353899981
just from an ebay search, no relaton to seller

there are also dellortto (32 dhlb) that are the same mounting pattern...as well as other 'made under license' to weber models made by Solex (32PHH) and even Holley!!


and the manifold looks like this
http://www.weberperformance.com.au/...ucts_id=889&osCsid=ejnldd60l3qht5d18in7vn1a10

then there are assorted smallparts, like phenollic spacer and gaskets that are all on ebay as well... so not unobtainium.

only unobtainium part would be the OE air cleaner assembly to suit dcof ... rather sought after by the abarth crowd as they were used on a few models.

And extra cool. :)

pierces kit fora 32/36 dfev replacement specific 124/131 brava, so should have most of the parts you need, although the carb will be set up and designed for use on an 1800 or 2000 engine, not a 11197/1438 ohc....and about 350us, but all brand new.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FIAT-124-13...AVA-/271746952552?hash=item3f45616d68&vxp=mtr

SteveC
 
Last edited:
Thanks Jeff

I will look into the DGV. I saw it on Pierce and I believe it has a manual choke. Thanks for the input.
 
Thanks again Steve

Seems like I need to look at the DGV Jeff mentioned or learn to rebuild a carb on my own. Thanks for the help.
 
Hold that thought!

JimD said:
I will look into the DGV. I saw it on Pierce and I believe it has a manual choke. Thanks for the input.
Click to expand...

I vaguely remembered someone stating once (years ago) not to use the DGV, then remembered it was Brad Artigue over on FS.com & Mirafiori.com. It turns out that the DGV is a mirror-image design that is opposite of what'll fit a Fiat:

http://fiatspider.com/f08/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2786&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=a

So the DFEV or DFAV are more apt to work better for you in this situation. Brad stated that the DFEV has an electric choke ("E" for Electric) & the DFAV has a manual choke, though I thought the "a" was for Automatic [coolant/water-activated] choke? :confuse2:

Brad also has an excellent write-up here (Section 11.5 covers carb-swaps):

http://www.artigue.com/fiatcontent/Artigue_FIAT_124_MM.pdf
 
Well that's good to know

Thanks for sticking with the thread Jeff. I do appreciate it.

Looking at Brad's write up makes me think my best approach is to work with what I have. The car is a bone stock 1438cc OHV, so it isn't exactly a high power car to begin with. My engine set up resides on the last line of his chart with a recommended carb of 28/36 DHSA2. Which is probably what is on it or maybe a slightly newer version of what I have.
 
Hi Jim D,

I have a nice 32 DMSA, shoot me an email or PM if you would like to try it, should be a bolt-on and use the same throttle and choke linkage without modification. I was thinking of trying it on my 1438 TC but decided the stock DHSA is fine.

Eric V
 
Thanks Eric

Thanks for the offer Eric, but I think I will do the same as you and just work with what I have. At least I will start with that plan and see where I end up.
 
Yeah Dfev would be the one, I have the auto choke variety on a 2l 124 coupe the auto choke works well. I just left the original choke cable strapped under the dash.

Chris
Oakland, ca.
 
I have a push rod OHV 1438

karhawk said:
Yeah Dfev would be the one, I have the auto choke variety on a 2l 124 coupe the auto choke works well. I just left the original choke cable strapped under the dash.
Click to expand...

Hi Chris,

Would the DFEV be too much carb for my 1438? It seems like it is meant for the larger displacement twin cams.
 
Minor rebuild made a big difference

I gave up on finding a "new" DHSA carb for my 124. I ordered a rebuild kit that covered what I suppose are the major wear items. There was a new needle valve assembly, a pump diaphragm, a few gaskets, lots of tiny cotter and then a bunch of various other bits and pieces.

I took the carb apart and it was definitely dirty. Not as bad as I had expected, but there was crud in the float bowl and the jets had crud in them too.

I cleaned everything up and blew out all the passages. I had an issue with the fuel return being loose, but I got it stuck back in there. Now the car runs a lot better. It had a huge dead spot in the middle of the pedal range and I would have to feather the pedal to get it up and going. Now it just goes. The automatic takes a while to realize its time to hit 2nd, but at least the car is more driveable now. :)
 
Check the vacuum modulator on the transmission, that's supposed to pull the trans down a gear under acceleration,and also helps it shift up when you ease off the throttle ever so slightly...

Its a round cylindrical thing hanging off the rear of the trans.... make sure the vacuum line is connected.

SteveC
 
Will do

Thanks Steve

I will check that out. I had read about it but hadn't looked under the car for the controller yet. I did locate the line running down to the transmission, so I will follow that.

I went back over the cleaning process I went thru and compared it to the exploded diagram of the carb. I had pulled and surface cleaned the idle jets, but I didn't realize the tiny jet could be pulled from the holder. :( I took them out again and pulled them apart and got some tiny particles out of the idle jets.

The car is running pretty good now and the idle adjustment screw actually has an effect. When I started this project the idle screw made no difference regardless of how far in or out it was turned.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top