Rerouting lines for Air pump Removal

All,

I know this topic has been talked about a lot on here. After reading all that I can find, I cant find specifics on how to route the lines after removing the air pump.

I haven't removed the pump yet; that's my plans for tonight. I just hope I can get a wrench to the three bolts securing the mount. I remember that I too could not get the long pivot bolt out years back before college hit. I don't want to cut the bolt as I like making everything I do reversible. I know the pump is nonfunctional on account that it is not connected with a v-belt (condition as purchased). I believe the pulley on it or the water pump is not correct since it is out of line. My belief is that the water pump is incorrect as it only has a single pulley.

Once it's out, where do I reroute the large hoses to and from the pump? The line from the pump to the canister has a T connection to a smaller hose connecting to the left side of the DATRA carb. Should that just be plugged or open to the air since there isn't a vaccuum held there anyways(?). I would like to keep the carbon canister because I want to keep everything that doesn't affect the hp output. The current hoses don't appear molded to shape as is but a replacement from the canister to the air filter housing would require a 180 degree bend in order to connect to the air filter.

I have plenty more questions regarding the system but will ask them as the project progresses.

An engine bay image can me seen in my first post introducing my X.

Thanks,

Andrew
AKimball92

AKimball92 said:

I haven't removed the pump yet; that's my plans for tonight. I just hope I can get a wrench to the three bolts securing the mount. I remember that I too could not get the long pivot bolt out years back before college hit.

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If you undo the dogbone (the engine reaction rod from cambox to rear bulkhead at the other end of the motor) you'll be able to shift the motor around enough to wiggle that long bolt out and remove the air pump.

Two of the three bolts for the mounting bracket are easy, but the third is a bit of a tight fit. The first time I tried, I gave up, decided I'd just leave the bracket in place until I had some reason to pull the manifolds. A few years later I was looking at it, thought I'd give it another try maybe with a few different wrenches, and this time I managed to get a wrench on that last bolt. YMMV.

Once it's out, where do I reroute the large hoses to and from the pump? The line from the pump to the canister has a T connection to a smaller hose connecting to the left side of the DATRA carb. Should that just be plugged or open to the air since there isn't a vaccuum held there anyways(?).

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I'm not familiar with the later model smog controls, but the general principle will be that: The hose to the pump is just drawing in filtered air so you don't need it at all. If it's drawing from the main air intake block the opening there. The hose from the pump to the cylinder head and all the plumbing along it is removed, and the port in the head is plugged. Any vacuum lines or other stuff along the path are for controlling the operation of the air pump (for example, to open the gulp valve to prevent backfiring on deceleration) and must be plugged back at the source - you never want to leave a vacuum line open.

Don't disconnect/remove anything until you know what it was supposed to do. If in doubt, post a photo here and ask.

Expect do some engine tuning when you're done - the ignition timing and idle mixture will need some tweaking, and a carb jet change may also be needed.

in I would like to keep the carbon canister because I want to keep everything that doesn't affect the hp output.

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Makes sense. The plumbing for this and the rest of the evaporative emissions stuff is blessedly separate quite logical.

Hey Andrew... best to post your fotos each time...

so that those of us that wish to help don't haveta search for them...

The simple answer to your inquiry is to just remove everything, then PLUG & PLAY.

To remove that long bolt... (and its been a long while for me...) first try removing the dogbone and pivoting the engine on its mounts. If you cannot get enough "throw", support the engine from below with a floor jack (and a block of wood under the pan) and remove the snail-mount bolt. Then jack the engine (or use a hoist) and tilt the right side up so the bolt will come out.

IIRC the only major issue is finding a good method to plug the exhaust manifold and for the life of me, I can't remember what I used.

Lastly, forget about reversing anything... you never will. Your next big weight loss and performance upgrade would be to loose the CAT and install a test pipe or headers. I'm about to conclude my 20 year test soon and will start another 20.

Have fun and I hope others will chime in with more hints.

The line from the pump to the canister has a T connection to a smaller hose connecting to the left side of the DATRA carb.

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Wait a minute.... That's weird. There's no reason why there should be a line from the pump to the carbon canister (although there will be a gulp valve on the pump output hose, controlled by a vacuum line from the carb).

Openings on the left side of the DATRA are: At the top, a float bowl vent that does connect to the canister; some vacuum ports for controlling various stuff; and a nipple lined up with the primary throttle shaft that sucks in the blowby from the crankcase vent.

Thanks EricH and Tony for the help. I was able to remove the pump last night after removing all the mount bolts except for one. That one hits the manifolds. I will remove those when the time comes to update the exhaust. Do the mounting holes need to be blocked to prevent spilling of oil or coolant?

I was mistaken on a couple of things. The air pump had a line running to the Gulp Valve (found here: https://www.midwest-bayless.com/p-6809-4305238-emissions-cannister-gulp-valve-w1x-vacuum-tap-fiat-124-128-x19-to-1978-oe.aspx ) and to the bottom of the air filter housing. A picture of this can be seen in the next reply. It is easier to post pictures using my phone but to type large replies on the computer. The lines are harder to see but are both about 3/4" in diameter and sitting above everthing else. Were these correct? Without the air pump, what do I connect to the bottom of the air filter. My original question pertained to the line mount is pointing to the right towards the air pump.

Wait a minute.... That's weird. There's no reason why there should be a line from the pump to the carbon canister (although there will be a gulp valve on the pump output hose, controlled by a vacuum line from the carb).

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The T runs to a vacuum/electro something that is mounted with the Gulp valve. See photo. What is this and is there a way to check that it works?

I found the carbon canister, I believe. It is located under the Gulp Valve and the Dogbone mount. Am I correct? See picture.

Openings on the left side of the DATRA are: At the top, a float bowl vent that does connect to the canister; some vacuum ports for controlling various stuff; and a nipple lined up with the primary throttle shaft that sucks in the blowby from the crankcase vent.

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The carbon canister has a vacuum line coming from the top of it to the bottom left side of the DATRA. What does this line do?

IIRC the only major issue is finding a good method to plug the exhaust manifold and for the life of me, I can't remember what I used.

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I dont believe that I have any lines running to the exhaust manifold? At least nothing that I could see right quick. Where did that line go to and what was it for?

See next comment posted from my phone for the pictures.

Lines from the air pump


Gulp valve and vacuum/electro thingy


Left side of the DATRA


Thanks,
Andrew

AKimball92 said:

I dont believe that I have any lines running to the exhaust manifold? At least nothing that I could see right quick.

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You won't - the air pump injects air into the exhaust system, but through the cylinder head into the exhaust ports (air enters just above the valves) not the exhaust manifold. There's a port around on the spark plug side of the head (four smaller ports, one per cylinder, on the '74) - some standard metric thread so you plug it with a suitable bolt.

AKimball92 said:

The carbon canister has a vacuum line coming from the top of it to the bottom left side of the DATRA. What does this line do?

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That draws fuel vapors from the carbon canister into the intake so they can be burned. The general idea is that everything that might let fuel vapor into the air (tank vent, carb float bowl) is vented through the canister so the carbon can trap the vapors. The hose from the exhaust manifold heat shield to the canister carries hot air to the canister, cooks the fuel vapors out of the carbon, and the line you're asking about carries them to the intake.

You'll have another line from the top of the DATRA to the canister, which is the float bowl vent.

AKimball92 said:

The T runs to a vacuum/electro something that is mounted with the Gulp valve. See photo. What is this and is there a way to check that it works?

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The gulp valve is vacuum operated, and that thing is an electrovalve that stops the vacuum signal when (I believe) the engine is cold. You will be removing the gulp valve and all of its plumbing including that electrovalve and its hoses. Just be sure to plug any vacuum lines back at the source.

The air pump hose to the bottom of the air filter housing goes away too - just plug the opening at the filter (or buy one of the little aftermarket filters from Matt or Vick, unclutters the engine bay amazingly).

You will also have two lines to the air filter housing for the crankcase vent system. One is a thick hose from the oil-vapor separator on the spark plug side of the motor; the other is a regular vacuum line to a nipple on the Datra. Keep these - crankcase ventilation is a good thing.

This would be a good time to check and see if your distributor has a vacuum line to it, and if so whether applying vacuum advances or retards the timing.

So is the gulp valve is worthless without the air pump? If so that means mine has been worthless for the entire time that I've had it. Not the I've driven it much though! But my pump hasn't been connected with a belt.

So what all is on the air pump system that does need to be removed, including lines?

AKimball92 said:

So what all is on the air pump system that does need to be removed, including lines?

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Pretty much everything can go. It's all there to control the operation of the air pump so isn't needed if you don't have an air pump.

Can you be more specific? Air pump, two large lines (from the gulp to the pump and from the pump to the air filter), the gulp valve and the electro valve with the line running to the cylinder head. The charcoal canister is a different system I believe and can and should stay? What should I do with the exhaust line? It looks like it has a silver check valve or something on it at the height of the valve cover? I've seen those on a lot of engine bay pictures.

P.S. I am bad at terms and can't find my Haynes manual since moving. Probably need to order one and a wiring diagram when I get the funds.

AKimball92 said:

The charcoal canister is a different system I believe and can and should stay?

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Yes.

What should I do with the exhaust line? It looks like it has a silver check valve or something on it at the height of the valve cover? I've seen those on a lot of engine bay pictures.

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I'm not sure what you mean by "the exhaust line"?

Sorry I was unclear. This one:

And thanks for the help!

Pretty sure that is the air input to the block

Here is a picture of a 1300 I have on a stand.

I am pretty sure the elbow fitting is the air injector from the pump into the head. You can remove the elbow and find or create a suitable sized plug to cap the hole.

JimD said:

I am pretty sure the elbow fitting is the air injector from the pump into the head. You can remove the elbow and find or create a suitable sized plug to cap the hole.

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Yes, Jim is right - that's the port through which air is injected into the exhaust. The thing on the elbow is indeed a sort of check valve, so that a backfire in the exhaust system won't blow out though the entire air pump system.

You will remove the elbow and the check valve, and you'll plug the threaded hole in the head with a suitable-sized bolt (or remove the check valve and weld the end of the elbow shut).