Floor pan installation help

x19dave

True Classic
Hi
I am having to do some welding on my car, I have to install a new front windscreen surround and outer rear roll over hoop both of which which I am going to spot weld in place is this the correct way of doing it as it is the way the old ones were fitted.

I also have to install new front and rear floor pans to both sides of my car what is the best way to weld these in, fully seam welded all way round, stich weld weld an inch leave an inch, spot weld or what other way

Many thanks
Dave
 
Dave,

I can't speak to the windshield surround or Targa repair as I was able to save mine from full replacement with some tedious metal work. I can however help you with the floor pan replacements.

I recently posted a complete review of my 1983 X rebuild which you can find here:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...20X1-9 s.pdf

Below, I've excerpted the part you need:

My floors looked like this:







I sourced replacement pans from Ricambi-Automobilia on eBay (they are in the Netherlands) - I think I paid around $400 US for the pair. There are less expensive alternatives on eBay but at the time, the difference in cost didn't justify the difference in quality - the Ricambi pans were much better formed. I just checked eBay and the C2C pans have been drastically reduced in price - only $80 a pair! They must be trying to get rid of them. For that price, they may be a reasonable choice. Alternately, you can try to form your own but I chose not to go that route.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-88-Fia...m2373328053:m:mqCCP8K3DgWUa1QNcCwIKjQ&vxp=mtr

As I was just learning to weld, I decided to engage a local mobile welder to tackle the job. I was afraid of warping or damaging the metal with my rudimentary MIG welder. I am glad I did - he did a superb job for not a lot of money. We plasma torched out the old floors and then, begin the process of "fitting" the new ones. Since the rot extended back to the cross beam support, I was glad the Ricambi pans gave us plenty of metal to work with.





Through a process of hammering and spot welding, we reached a very good outcome:










As you can see from these pictures, we went with the spot weld theory and worked slowly as to give the metal time to cool to avoid warping and hot spots. The "fit" between welds was very good - i.e. the metal laid well and was tight to the structure.

I finished all the seams (both inside and outside) with 3M Automotive Seam Sealer and then primed and undercoated.






I sourced new rubber drain plugs and used a hole saw to create the right size hole. Then, I installed an inexpensive foil / foam material for heat and sound deadening.




The end result is perfect. Quiet, leak free, and identical to the original floor clearance.



I hope this helps!

Good luck!

Ed
Austin, TX
 
Dave, Ed showed you the RIGHT way to install pans...

But there are also "other" ways that some folks might think is WRONG, but then they don't haveta know...

Lets talk windscreen and Targa bar for the moment. What ever method you use to "attach" the new metal to the existing structure is OK... even glue or rivets!

But, then you will need to carefully stitch-weld (butt-butt) the entire piece SLOWLY and ALTERNATING to minimize warping. Hammer when you can and grind so that a minimum of filler is necessary.

I would also recommend:

1. Using the top and doors, insure the windscreen frame and Targa Bar are in the proper position... so the glass and top will fit properly when done. Check several times as you progress with these two repairs.

2. If there is a way, I would add some rod or other material where the new windscreen frame attached to the cowl for increased stability. If I remember correctly there are 1 or 3 stamping to give the frame some strength and cannot be welded together once cut. There must be a 100 ways to do this, I'm sure you'll find one.

The floor... as Ed showed ya and then he covered it all up!

The wells MUST add o the overall stability of the uni-body but on a scale of 1 - 100, probably a .05... The tunnel and side rail stamping handle the other 99.95% of the load and twist... so cutting out all the floors would not impact this chassis. (Watch out for arguments and opinions... I say this based on experience sawing them in half and hacking away fenders.)

With that in mind... if it was my car in the condition that you have stated... I would cut out the damaged portions and leave a 1" lip of good metal for the new piece (bought or hammered out yourself) to REST ON.

Then insure the fit, and GLUE it in place. "Liquid Nails" has products made specifically to glue all sorts of materials to each other or to others. Add a few sheet-metal screws or rivets if you like, then use undercoating below and a like material on top (Splatter-paint) and then cover with padding and carpet.

DO NOT attempt to HIDE this repair... the scars showing through the undercoating are something you can be proud of.

Back in the day... there was only ONE type of Liquid Nails that contractors use to glue brick to boards and boards to brick and sinks to walls. It was known in quantity as "Contractor's Cement". I did some research at a couple of body shops and affirmed that they too use GLUE to reassemble cars just like the factory did~!

I ended up gluing on my LF fender (wing) where it was once spot welded... worked perfectly, fast, no warping, and inexpensive.

Have fun, seems like you are resurrecting a derelict.
 
floor pans

Black tooth
Thanks for your reply I did look at the glued in way but was a bit unsure as I am sure newer cars that it is used on are designed for glued in panels and ours are not, I do agree with what you are saying about chassis stiffness to me it looks as if most comes from the tunnel and the side pods and the floor pans do not do too much.
And yes a lot of people would say I am trying to resurrect a derelict but it is my derelict and I love her also has a fully eurosport body kit fitted so worth spending a bit more time on, also the wife says that I will never get it back on the road what more incentive do you need
Cheers
Dave
 
Floor pans

Colltech
many thanks for your reply it makes some interesting reading, I was thinking of spot/plug welding the pans in place but was worried that they might fracture due to flexing, you are lucky to have access to a plasma cutter I have a grinder and dia grinder so it will take me a little bit longer and probably not as good results, I have already got some seam sealer and I have got some weldable galvanised paint so paint both flanges before welding and seal after, will not put and foam down as trying to keep weight down so no carpet, good idea about the rubber drian plugs will have to look and see what I can find
Cheers
Dave
 
Dave,

The material I used to insulate was an inexpensive foil backed, lightly adhesive foam commonly used for insulating AC / Heat ducting. I think it cost around $18 a roll (12 in. X 15 ft.) and I used less than two rolls. Very easy to work with and in total, probably added less than 3 lbs total weight! That's about a good dinner for me!

Are you sure you need to weld in a new windshield frame? I debated doing that but decided the chances of getting the angles right were "iffy" at best. Instead, I invested the time in repairing the existing frame which was pretty badly rotted:












I spent time cutting away ALL the rust back to bare metal then rust treated everything to prevent future problems. Once I had determined I had enough metal left for structural integrity, I began the repair process. I shaped and welded in new metal where feasible but there are a lot of tricky areas on the frame where this wasn't possible. After welding what I could, I injected the frame with a rigid foam and used a very cool "metal tape" - highly adhesive on one side - to form the rest of what I needed. I finished a light coat of bondo and a LOT of hand sanding to get the shape at the bottom just right.

It was a lot of work but I am sure it paled in comparison to a windshield frame swap.








Finished product:







Cheers!

Ed
 
Windshield frame

Ed
Your windshield looks nearly as bad as mine, mine also has big holes on both bottom corners, I know exactly where you are coming from about getting the correct angles and shape, but I am also fitting a roll cage and my plan is, but I have not fully checked it out yet, is to install the cage as far forward as possible so it is touching the top of the windscreen surround and then weld the surround to the roll cage so it will not move also should help to make the chassis a bit more ridged.

Not sure if it will work or if it might cause more problems down the road but if you do not try you do not know.

But I must say the finished product with what you have done look fantastic top marks to you my friend

Cheers
Dave
 
Did you call Henk on the pans? They don't list them on the eBay store.

I will need to redo my driver's floor pan at some point - I'd rather work with a well formed repair panel - otherwise I likely make my own.

Dave: got any more pics to post of the overall car? Curious to see the body kit in it :)
 
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Floor pans

Hussein
Already have the pans mate got them from Eurosport here in the UK they look good will see how well they fit when I get home good price £70 each
Might get some pics up next time home
Cheers
Dave
 
Well thanks for the compliment - it was my first real go at bodywork. It was learning experience for sure.

What I lacked in knowledge and expertise, I more than made it for in time!

:)

Ed
 
floor pans

I know where you are coming from this is my first attempt at MIG welding done a little Arc and TIG which has given me the basics and got my daughters ex round (luckily we all still talk) to show me what to do as he is a welder so I feel quietly confident any problems and I will be back on the phone to him

Dave
 
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