Anyone sell high-quality front driver side floor pans?
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roadster27
True Classic
Have you tried pounding it back out first?
Sorry I missed the bit about the rust.
Sorry I missed the bit about the rust.
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Kevin Cozzo
True Classic
there's these....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-88-Fia...:Fiat|Model:X-1/9&hash=item2809681fa6&vxp=mtr
which are nothing more than a flat piece of metal, that you have to bend, AND weld the corners....was another source that made moulded pans that looked awesome, and very hi quality, in price anyways, looked oem,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiat-X-1-9-...ee3a36c&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=2&sd=310814241373
I bought 18ga steel, very heavy duty, and cut my own, and welded them in,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-88-Fia...:Fiat|Model:X-1/9&hash=item2809681fa6&vxp=mtr
which are nothing more than a flat piece of metal, that you have to bend, AND weld the corners....was another source that made moulded pans that looked awesome, and very hi quality, in price anyways, looked oem,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiat-X-1-9-...ee3a36c&pid=100011&rk=2&rkt=2&sd=310814241373
I bought 18ga steel, very heavy duty, and cut my own, and welded them in,
Kevin Cozzo
True Classic
the stamped ones
or should I say the pricier ones- are the exact duplicates, from what I understand....someone here ordered them, and they are as close to oem as you can get....and actually, they aren't that expensive, but the shipping is like 90 bucks, because they're from the neverlands- ouch, lol
or should I say the pricier ones- are the exact duplicates, from what I understand....someone here ordered them, and they are as close to oem as you can get....and actually, they aren't that expensive, but the shipping is like 90 bucks, because they're from the neverlands- ouch, lol
Hi Kevin. The ricambi-automobilia ones or the Eurosport one?
Eurosport looks stamped but the site says hand crafted? Eurosport one here: http://www.eurosport-uk.net/shop/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=124
Eurosport looks stamped but the site says hand crafted? Eurosport one here: http://www.eurosport-uk.net/shop/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=124
Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
How BIG is this SMALL spot?
Is replacing the entire pan necessary or will a patch panel or will an encapsulation repair do the trick? Both kinds of these repair can be made virtually invisible.
SEND PHOTOS Tom... then we can accurately give you some direction.
Is replacing the entire pan necessary or will a patch panel or will an encapsulation repair do the trick? Both kinds of these repair can be made virtually invisible.
SEND PHOTOS Tom... then we can accurately give you some direction.
Kevin Cozzo
True Classic
ricambi
are the closest to oem.....but like Tony says, it is much easier to patch a spot, if you can, just cut out the rusty spot and lay a piece on top, and weld er in.....I like to use sheet metal screws to hold it tight together, before I weld it
of course it is nice to look up under the car, and not see the ugly patch
are the closest to oem.....but like Tony says, it is much easier to patch a spot, if you can, just cut out the rusty spot and lay a piece on top, and weld er in.....I like to use sheet metal screws to hold it tight together, before I weld it
of course it is nice to look up under the car, and not see the ugly patch
Got it - thanks Kevin.
I could patch my floor but given how banged up it is - which is really odd since rest of the car is very straight - it may actually be easier to just let this in. Looks like a fairly easy repair.
Thanks!
Edit - here is what it looks like for future reference. Around $190 USD delivered to your door.
I could patch my floor but given how banged up it is - which is really odd since rest of the car is very straight - it may actually be easier to just let this in. Looks like a fairly easy repair.
Thanks!
Edit - here is what it looks like for future reference. Around $190 USD delivered to your door.
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Black-Tooth
Tony Natoli
No, no, no... But its your money...
1. Its not as easy as it looks
2. Its expensive and even more expensive to have it done.
3. Its very time consuming also.
4. Its probably unnecessary in your case.
A B.F.M. and maybe some blocks of wood like a 2 x 4 can pound out all the crushed areas and "beautification" on the underside can be finessed in the same manner. Finish up with a few coats of UNDERCOATING at $3 bucks a can and you, as well as most others, will never know it happened.
Apparently the rust issue is not that much of a problem compared to the crushed issues. Find the area and grind or sane the top and bottom clean to bare metal. Then cut to overlap some fiber glass mat and apply resin to repair and seal from the inside. Apply more coats to make it firm and also under the car so the surface matches that around it. Then sand or grind if necessary and undercoat.
Your children and their kids will not see rust in this area again if you keep the windows rolled up when it rains and never leave this state.
HTHs and you consider what I've said. If you really want a PATCH panel welded in, I could do that for you... but I personally don't have the skill or ability (anymore) to weld in an entire tray.
1. Its not as easy as it looks
2. Its expensive and even more expensive to have it done.
3. Its very time consuming also.
4. Its probably unnecessary in your case.
A B.F.M. and maybe some blocks of wood like a 2 x 4 can pound out all the crushed areas and "beautification" on the underside can be finessed in the same manner. Finish up with a few coats of UNDERCOATING at $3 bucks a can and you, as well as most others, will never know it happened.
Apparently the rust issue is not that much of a problem compared to the crushed issues. Find the area and grind or sane the top and bottom clean to bare metal. Then cut to overlap some fiber glass mat and apply resin to repair and seal from the inside. Apply more coats to make it firm and also under the car so the surface matches that around it. Then sand or grind if necessary and undercoat.
Your children and their kids will not see rust in this area again if you keep the windows rolled up when it rains and never leave this state.
HTHs and you consider what I've said. If you really want a PATCH panel welded in, I could do that for you... but I personally don't have the skill or ability (anymore) to weld in an entire tray.
DaveF
I must be MAD!!!
Replacement floorpan
I would agree with Black-tooth, I should know It's taken me two years of hard slog with the metal work. It would be quite an involved process to replace the floor pan, if you only need to repair a small patch 'do that' it will save you a lot of time. If it's done right you wont even know its been repaired.
Take a look at my floor pan, fortunately my pans only required minimal repairs, but if you look closely at the floor pan there would be a fair bit of work required to remove the old pan.
This is an old picture, as the car has been stripped and acid dipped and returned with an epoxy coat.
Regards
Dave
I would agree with Black-tooth, I should know It's taken me two years of hard slog with the metal work. It would be quite an involved process to replace the floor pan, if you only need to repair a small patch 'do that' it will save you a lot of time. If it's done right you wont even know its been repaired.
Take a look at my floor pan, fortunately my pans only required minimal repairs, but if you look closely at the floor pan there would be a fair bit of work required to remove the old pan.
This is an old picture, as the car has been stripped and acid dipped and returned with an epoxy coat.
Regards
Dave
floor pans
I got a pair from c obert a while back, and the install was horrific. the boards in the car were glassed from top and bottom and I guess the job was done in a hurry as they delaminated from poor prep work. a patch panel is optimum if it is a small hole. use "fusor" epoxy to bond the surfaces and rivet in place, or use sheet metal screws to hold in place.
or better yet, if you have access to a air powered flanger, you have a patch panel that can't be seen. some undercoating and no one will know!
mikemo
I got a pair from c obert a while back, and the install was horrific. the boards in the car were glassed from top and bottom and I guess the job was done in a hurry as they delaminated from poor prep work. a patch panel is optimum if it is a small hole. use "fusor" epoxy to bond the surfaces and rivet in place, or use sheet metal screws to hold in place.
or better yet, if you have access to a air powered flanger, you have a patch panel that can't be seen. some undercoating and no one will know!
mikemo
Huh - am I missing something about how these cars are constructed? I've had to replace floor pan on a TR3, MGC and Bugeye. Not a huge amount of fun but not really that hard. I patched an old Alfa Spider, so I do believe in not do in. In when wading is fine.
If I open up the replacement floor area and lap weld the flange in it should be that hard, should it?
If I open up the replacement floor area and lap weld the flange in it should be that hard, should it?
floor pans
there about 45-50 spot welds holding them in each depending if it was before or after the vino at lunch. and that's a lot of time on your back grinding and drilling to remove the one's there....and then the metal prep. flange and replace the bad area is highly recommended.
mikemo
there about 45-50 spot welds holding them in each depending if it was before or after the vino at lunch. and that's a lot of time on your back grinding and drilling to remove the one's there....and then the metal prep. flange and replace the bad area is highly recommended.
mikemo
Hi Mike - thanks for the additional information.
Why couldn't I "simply" section the floor leaving the existing spot welded flanges in place and then drop the (likely trimmed) new floor on top of that. That will have a slight increase in the thickness of that flange area (new sheet metal on top of old), but don't know that anyone would notice post paint / sealer.
Am I missing something?
Thanks guys.
Why couldn't I "simply" section the floor leaving the existing spot welded flanges in place and then drop the (likely trimmed) new floor on top of that. That will have a slight increase in the thickness of that flange area (new sheet metal on top of old), but don't know that anyone would notice post paint / sealer.
Am I missing something?
Thanks guys.
Jeff Stich
True Classic
I agree...
Forget the naysayers & do exactly as you've said. Tack/spot weld in place (then seam weld if you feel like it). Don't forget the seam bonding/sealing goop to keep any elements out. Primer/paint & move on. It ain't rocket science, folks! :geek:
Forget the naysayers & do exactly as you've said. Tack/spot weld in place (then seam weld if you feel like it). Don't forget the seam bonding/sealing goop to keep any elements out. Primer/paint & move on. It ain't rocket science, folks! :geek: