Cold Start Issue

dontilgon

dontilgon

True Classic
I'm starting a new thread for each of my issues so future Xers could find easier as suggested to do by a member here:

So I was experiencing long cold start ups. A lot of cranking to her started, but when finally started all was well. I pull the cold starter injector and had someone crank it while cold and zero fuel was spraying out. So I'll be hunting for a bosch OEM cold start valve part number 0 280 170 031.
 
There ya go Don... PROVING the part good or bad...

before hunting for something that possibly would not have fixed the problem.

Sure is a lot better than throwing parts, money and time at something and ending up with the SAME *^#^%$&* problem!

BTW... If I were living where you are... I'd carry a can of ether with me (Starting Fluid) and find a way to easily inject it so you could spray it and then crank the engine by yourself.
 
Bench Test?

Would a 9V battery be enough to bench test, if so all I'm getting is a single clicking noise.
 
you're applying 9v to the injector and it clicks? Then it works, might be clogged but it's working. If you put a test light/meter on the harness and crank does it light or read something for a few seconds? That's what you need to know. If the ECU isn't telling the CSI to fire, a new one won't fire either.
 
The ECU doesn't actually have anything to do with the CSI. The CSI is powered via the dual relay, and switched by the thermo-time switch.

Thermo Time Switch
The engine must be completely cold to conduct this test. It is easier to perform this test when the ambient air temperature is less than 80 degrees. Disconnect connector from cold start valve. Install a test light or voltmeter to the connector. Operate the starter and note that the thermo time switch should be on for 1 to 8 seconds while the engine is colder than 95 degrees F. Above 95 degrees the sensor will not trip.

Cold Start Valve
The engine must be completely cold to conduct this test. It is easier to perform this test when the ambient air temperature is less than 80 degrees. Unbolt the cold start valve from the intake plenum and place the tip in a container. Operator the starter. The valve should spray for 1-8 seconds or while the engine coolant is under 95 degrees F. The valve should have a fine misting spray, not a drip. If the valve fails to shut off or never sprays replace the valve.
Click to expand...
 
It took awhile to download the manual, here's page 21...



Note the components you are after are on the middle right of the page.

I also now understand where the "Thermo-Time-Switch" got its name.

Apparently it is a 2-in-1 switch. It operates for about 8 seconds in temperatures under 115 degrees (as detected on the engine, not the air) for COLD STARTS, and will not operate if the temperature it detects are over 115 degrees.

Actually, a pretty smart, antiquated solution for this old FI system!
 
Thanks for the pics and valuable info. Any chance you have a pic of this Thermo Time Switch? I would be lying if I told you I tested everything suggested. Let just say the weather here in NY as been challenging.
I'm hoping to get my test light out this weekend!
In the mean time I did order a new bosch cold start valve for $125( believe it or not that was cheapest I could find even using a dealership discount):eyepop:
 
dontilgon said:
Any chance you have a pic of this Thermo Time Switch?
Click to expand...
37.jpg


dontilgon said:
In the mean time I did order a new bosch cold start valve for $125( believe it or not that was cheapest I could find even using a dealership discount):eyepop:
Click to expand...
You may have been a bit too quick on the draw with that. Over the past decade or two I have seen 3 (or is it 4? can't remember) failed thermo-time switches (over several L-jet and K-jet cars) an no failed cold start injectors. Any chance you can cancel that order until you know for a fact that the injector is what you need?
 
The cheapest I was able to find was on ebay so unfortunately I cant. I'm going out to the car in a bit and will perform the above test.
When I initially tested the cold start valve I got no fuel spray on crank. Thanks for the input.
 
Jeff & Bjorn showed you WHAT it looked like, here's WHERE...

it is located on your engine.



ALSO NOTE:

You can test whether or not the Thermo-Time Switch is a contributor to the problem by simply pulling the connector and shorting the two terminals. If the Injector still doesn't SQUIRT, then the problem is further back.

Sorry we didn't get to you in time if the injector you just bought doesn't solve the problem. Put it up here first in the FS&W section with a good discount for your LEARNING EXPERIENCE and I'm sure another enthusiast will appreciate it.

Hopefully you have had enough LEARNING EXPERIENCES so that you'll check here with the "Peanut Gallery" first. You being a New Yorker and all, we'll do our best to reply more promptly... But don't let me spoil your fun... HA!
 
You guys were right.....

Wasn't the cold start valve, put it in yesterday and waited till this morning to give her a crank(being its 5 degrees) and no luck. On to Removed the Thermo time switch and I have no luck sourcing this part locally. Bosch Part number 0280130214

24 mm deep socket to remove
 
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So as not to repeat the last (expensive) leap I'd be backprobing the injector with a DC voltmeter (or following the diagnostic instructions as posted above) before assuming anything was wrong with the TTS (Matt advertises them for $79 - the injector itself for $79 (less $9 core charge) - a good advertisement for supporting the people who support us!).

IMHO the TTS would be the LEAST likely component (including wires, fuses etc) to be the culprit.

Of course you have a working CSI now, so you could create a very effective anti-theft device using a hidden momentary switch to give a burst on the CSI whenever you want/need one! No car thief will work that one out!
 
Well it turned out to be the female clip on the thermo time switch. It was pushed in not making proper contact with the male switch clip.Now look what I found
 
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