Does anyone have concise clutch bleed instructions?

That's a funny analogy Steve,

Made me laugh! :) Too bad I wasn't watching Craigslist...

I found it to be an easy 2-person job...
First, sweet-talk your wife into helping you :bla:
Next, fill the reservoir and pump the brake until it's noticeably doing nothing. (likely not long)
Next, ensuring the reservoir stays full, remove 1 brake caliper hose in the rear of the car "at the solid line connection"

Loop:
Ask Wife to push brake pedal down and hold.
Place finger over brake line flair to block air from coming in and ask wife to fully release the brake pedal.
Release finger from flair and go to Loop:

Takes about 20 minutes. Worked like a charm the 2 times that I've done it.
No pressurized air, no bleed kits, etc. Just make sure the reservoir stays full of fluid.

After you're done, take wife out to dinner and consider yourself a lucky man. :pimp: :dance2:
 
c-clamp

I have always unbolted the slave cylinder from it's mount, removed adjustable rod and rubber boot, then put slave in a large c-clamp end to end. Place it so bleeder screw is at the highest point. Pump and bleed. Reassemble. Once done switch over to Russell Speed bleeders at all locations. Tape a broom to clutch pedal and you can make it a one man operation.
 
I certainly would not know about DEVO, except...

for those stupid hats!

I believe my boys (47 and 46 years old...) might be aware of those lyrics!

HA!
 
Deane said:
I have always unbolted the slave cylinder from it's mount, removed adjustable rod and rubber boot, then put slave in a large c-clamp end to end. Place it so bleeder screw is at the highest point. Pump and bleed. Reassemble. Once done switch over to Russell Speed bleeders at all locations. Tape a broom to clutch pedal and you can make it a one man operation.
Click to expand...

Speed bleeders was on my mind as an option here too. But I guess my real q is why add the speed bleeders after the bleed?
 
I just completed the res hose and clutch master replacement

I bled the master cyl once all parts were bolted back in, except the hard line. I placed a drain pan under the master cyl, and found a vacuum hose I could insert into the threaded hole of the master. Then I connected my mityvac and sucked it until I got clear fluid. Then I put the metal line on and snugged her up. Then, with a wrench still on the fitting, I hand pumped the pedal and cracked open the fitting just as i started to pump, and snugged it up as the pedal hit the floor. Note: Make sure you wear eye goggles for this step.

This got 90% of the air out of the system before I even went back to the slave cyl.

Then at the slave cyl, I had a neighbor do the old pump and hold while I opened the bleeder and observed the clutch arm movement, until it was shooting clear. Total bleed time was less than an hour :woot:
 
I'm at All The Above today...

Wish me much luck everyone..lol
I may get super lucky.

I have Russell Speed Bleeders on all points.
Left the rear jacked up and the Slave bleeder open.
If that doesn't prove to have worked. Going to get out the Pressure Bleeder and crank 5 PSI on it and that should do it :jedi:
 
clutch bleeding

we have a winner!
by using your finger, you don't have to monkey around with turning the bleeder in and out hoping not to let a little air in. look at it in a different light. your not trying to build pressure so to speak, and work against the clutch but displacing the air in the cyl. no air equates all fluid. by depressing the pedal slowly by hand, you have a consistent slow flow of fluid to the slave. once all the air is removed, the pressure takes care if itself since the air in the system is removed.
mikemo90*aol.com
 
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