1976 Scorpion; Gold

Pump in place.


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Timing belt in place. (The backwards water cooling housing is sitting there just to cover the hole so nothing falls in there.)
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I printed out a little wheel to put on the cam pulley to count teeth, just to make sure everything OK. Quick and dirty check is within a few degrees of the nominal values for the cam. It would have to be 17.142 degrees off for a single belt tooth skip.
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I put some marks on the flywheel approximating -34 to -38 per information in the Guy Croft tuning manual.

Using a continuity buzzer, I set the static maximum advance there by spreading the advance weights through a small hole in the top plate of the distributor.
 

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The 10x1075 belt I got from Midwest Bayless was too small.

The alternator was all the way over in the adjustment slot and the rubber insulator on the back of the alternator was hitting the intake manifold.

I found a 10x1080 on line but it hasn’t arrived yet to see if it will be ok.
 

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The 10x1075 belt I got from Midwest Bayless was too small.

The alternator was all the way over in the adjustment slot and the rubber insulator on the back of the alternator was hitting the intake manifold.

I found a 10x1080 on line but it hasn’t arrived yet to see if it will be ok.
midwest sold me the wrong v-belt too
 
1980 Bayless catalog listing (#7 in the scan below) from which I ordered, shows the linkage came with the manifold.

The carbs themselves were listed in the catalog with seven different designations. Art recommended the 42 DCNF 9 to go with the manifold setup. For 25% more he jetted the carbs and offered assistance if it did not run right. I paid the extra 25% and from what I recall, the carbs shipped to me appropriately jetted for my cams (which I ordered at the same time) with the linkages already installed on the carbs.

42 DCNF 9
42 DCNF11
42 DCNF 2M/1
42 DCNF 26M/2
42 DCNF 31 etc.
 
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I recall at one point I had the button connected to the fuel pump circuit, to fill the float bowls. In the original hookup, the electric pump was tied in with the oil pressure and starter circuit for safety in a crash. After the fuel eveporates from the float bowls, some time cranking the engine is needed to fill the carbs with fuel. What I have now is a modified relay, the one with a red mark. It turns the fuel pump on with the ignition switch which is more convenient than going in back an pressing the button to fill the float bowls. Though not as safe in a crash.
 
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