Seized alternator lower bolt!

ianlawson

ianlawson

ian - NZ
With winter coming on strong here in DownUnder Land, I'm catching up on some long-neglected winter maintenance on my '78 1300 X.
I replaced the cambelt last week, and noticed then when I had the alt belt off, that the alternator bearings were rough-sounding when spinning the pulley.
So today is alternator-removal day (or so I had hoped) and then off to get the bearings replaced in the bugger!
Of course (as I have often read of similar cases here on Xweb), the lower bolt is totally seized in the mounting lugs/bracket - no amount of lightish (and gradually heavier) whacking with a hammer will budge the bolt - even after copious spraying with CRC (DownUnder equivalent to WD40)!
Has anyone here on Xweb got any tips on how to free up this bolt to enable removal of the alternator? I don't have any heating/welding equipment here - I would be reluctant to use any flame-type equipment under there anyway.
No, Tony, I haven't cut an access hatch thru from the rear trunk - I don't think that's necessary. There is enough room underneath to swing a hammer at the bolt - but the bloody thing just sounds solid when whacked with a hammer! :guns:

Any helpful advice from 'sufferers of this same X-fate' would be gratefully received!! :help:

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
Sometimes...

if you don't want to use heat, the opposite of heat (freezing) works to break the bond between the offending parts. There are products specifically for this (not sure if you have them where you are), or you can use another freezing agent; one example is the compressed refrigerant used to charge a A/C system. Just use precautions to avoid spraying your eyes, skin, etc. The idea is to freeze the area, then use something like an impact wrench (or possibly a wrench and hammer). Otherwise, the bolt could be drilled completely out and the remains repaired / re-threaded to accept a new bolt (very time consuming).
Once removed, that precautions to avoid future corrosion (anti-seize).
Let us know how you do.
 
Ian... I believe you KNOW the answer...

Yur just OLD and STUBBORN!

Cut that access hole...

Then I would spray the area and attempt to TWIST the alternator on its mount using leverage or tapping. Secondly, since the alternator is in need of a rebuild, I might even SACRIFICE it to get to the mount or the mounting bolts (3?) and remove the entire thing off the side of the block that way.

This would then be a good time to upgrade to a GM alternator as well.

Hope this helps...
 
You said you were using the "Down Under equivalent of WD-40". You should be using the Down Under equivalent of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. WD-40 is a Water Displacer with lubricating qualities. And twist that alternator! :jedi:
 
Agreed... PB-Blaster and Patience is helpful

Every situation is different and there are no guarantees, but lots of PB-blaster (or equivalent), time, and patience is a good recipe. I had a similar situation with my alternator bolts. I sprayed with PB-blaster a few times each day, tapped with a hammer, and wrenched it. After 4 days, it finally broke free.

Of course I had other experiences where no amount of PB-blaster nor time would free the bolt, but this generally works well...

jasco said:
You said you were using the "Down Under equivalent of WD-40". You should be using the Down Under equivalent of PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench. WD-40 is a Water Displacer with lubricating qualities. And twist that alternator! :jedi:
Click to expand...
 
Got the bugger..........!!

......using the tap-tap-tap-squirt, tat-tap-tap-squirt method.
I soaked the alt. mounting bracket joints where the bolt passes thru with CRC spray and left it overnite.
Back under the car this morning, with the BFH in hand and started the tap-squirt procedure. That lower bolt was SERIOUSLY seized in the alt./block mounting bracket, and needed hammering, using a long pin punch right to the very end of the hole in the alternator housing!
Tony, down here mate, we don't have GM (Delco?) alternators freely available from car wreckers! Not many US built cars have been imported here for quite a few years - mainly been UK, Aussie, or more recently Jap stuff (which I'm not sure if their alternators would fit onto an X without a lotta hassle) over the past 30 years or so.
Also, I have an ol' workmate who is a retired auto electrician :) and he has some bearings and a few parts for Marelli alternators in his "handy parts" section of his home garage. He will 'tidy up' my X alternator for a couple of beers at our local pub!! Ahh, wotta life for us retirees, mate!
Anyway, thanks to Dr Jeff, Tony, jasco, and geekdaddy for the helpful tips on getting that bloody bolt out!
After I refit the alternator back in the X, using plenty of 'NeverSeez' (magic stuff) on the lower mounting bolt, I don't see me having any problems removing it again! :whistle:

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
I've been able to get the alternator mounting bracket off the block even when the alternator is in place - there's room to get a wrench in there behind the alternator.

And with the alternator and bracket out of the car... That long bolt through the alternator will quickly surrender to persuasion of the BFH.
 
CRC

Ian,

Congrats on the conquer !

Many chimed in as to different techniques. Thought I'd chime in about the CRC.

CRC 5-56

Perhaps the best general lubricant known to man.

I have reservations comparing it to "WD-40". :)

lezesig
'72 X 1/18
 
Thanks Lez, mind you..............!

lezesig1 said:
...CRC 5-56
Perhaps the best general lubricant known to man.
I have reservations comparing it to "WD-40". :)....
Click to expand...

.....I think the constant swearing and cursing I was aiming at that bloody seized bolt helped a bit to free it up! :jedi:
Yeah, I agree with your comment re CRC 5-56 fluid - I have found it brilliant stuff to use in freeing up rusted fasteners etc. over many years.
It may have been a poor comparison on my part - comparing it to the WD40 so-called "equivalent" fluid, but there has really only been those 2 brands of "free-up" stuff on our market down here! We have never seen/heard of PB Blaster. I have used only CRC since it came on the market years ago!
Anyway, the alt is now off the car, and I'll have it down to my friendly auto-sparky's house tomorrow for him to give it the workover (before we hit the pub for a few beers!)

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
Good for you... but...

Yur still too damn old and stubborn!

Cut that access hole and then you can STAND UP and do the work in 15 minutes. You won't regret it!

Secondly... WD40, PB Blaster and CRC56 or whatever... Reminds me of the shortcuts we use when coining new terms... like the word KLEENEX is used when we want a facial tissue...

As for the GM alternator... That was chosen here stateside for a couple of reasons. One, it fits quite well with minimal fabrication and two, they are inexpensive and readily available. "Lifetime Warranties" are a plus as well.

The point being... there is probably another, more robust alternator available locally that will fill these requirements as well. I believe Bernice found a nice compact one off a Nissan that adapted well.

Its good you have a friend with parts available, its just these old Marelli's and Bosch's are somewhat fragile when it comes to their electronics. NEVER jump start another car with your X without disconnecting your battery. Chances of blowing the diodes in your rectifier are very likely when the other car starts.

You don't wanna know how I know...
 
Ahhh- Maybe THAT's why my alternator needed replacement after only 2 seasons. I jumped my Blue X with the Greaseslapper last summer. I bet I did just that-burned out the diodes. Live, READ, and learn!
 
Tony, call me old-fashioned, but.......!

Black-Tooth said:
.....Yur still too damn old and stubborn!.....
Yep, my now-aching muscles (wot muscles?) confirm that statement, Tony

Cut that access hole and then you can STAND UP and do the work in 15 minutes. You won't regret it!...
I like keeping my classic cars "virginal" i.e. un-butchered!!
Unlike other owners who cut holes in their cars with gas-axes at the drop of a hat! Nuthin' would depress me more that to start slicing into that back trunk panel with some sort of cutter - aaaaagghhh! :censored:

Keep 'em looking like straight off the production line, mate :nod: !
Click to expand...

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
I'll call you OLD, and UN-FASHIONABLE...

I'm not suggesting HACKING at it...

Using a late model access "door" as a template... one could make it appear like a later model factory car.

But... don't let me RUIN YOUR FUN! Stick with your principles no matter how much it hurts. Just don't do no more whining here! HA!
 
If it helps

Topic: Access Panels

I too whinced when even thinking about parting the sheet metal.

Comes down to a question of "Value added?"

Case in point....ANOTHER great access panel to add on the X 1/9 is one directly over the bleeder screw on the radiator.

Three inch square-ish panel there with a gasketed mating cover works wonders when fidgeting with that bleed screw. That access hole allows ample room to access that screw, inspect the boss, and lessen the opportunity to cross thread.


...I'm just saying :)

lezesig
'72 X 1/18
 
Ahhh, a fellow 'purist', Lez.........!

lezesig1 said:
...I too whinced when even thinking about parting the sheet metal........
Click to expand...

......no way could I live with getting into that rear trunk and start cutting away with whatever means, just to give a bit more access to the engine! :shock:
Actually, I think our Eurospec X's are less cluttered around the intake/exhaust side of the engine - no A/C or emission junk to fight your way past to get at things!
And once I got that seized lower bolt out, the alt dropped out quite easily from underneath.

Interesting suggestion on the access hole 'modification' to the radiator bleeder, Lez!
Yep, it can be a fiddle getting that bleeder out, and back in!
I actually cut a shortish straight length off a 'spare' 8mm Allen key, which fits neatly into the hex-hole in the bleeder, and lets you twirl away with your fingers to get the bleeder started when refitting it.
No need to hack into that front trunk for me, mate!

Aaah, the joys of X1/9 maintenance! :wink2:

cheers, Ian - NZ
 
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