Simon Oaten
Daily Driver
excellent work
The Rat's Nest - 81 X1/9 Build
- Thread starter Clatter
- Start date
Clatter
True Classic
Thanks for the attention and kind thoughts my friends.
Yesterday since the kid was at school i decided to finish off these brakes.
Had initially gotten rebuild kits from a guy on the forum here who claimed they were OE Italian.
Since the rear kits didn't include o rings, i got a kit from MWB, and fronts as well for good measure.
MWB kit was from Slovenia?
Complete and included o rings.
New inner seal was soft and pliable, with a shiny surface compared to "OE Italian".
Since I'd already installed these old ones on the other three calipers, i decided to continue.
When the -last- caliper went together it started oozing when you pumped the e-brake lever.
Bubbles and black goo would come out.
Inner ring was dissolving in the brake fluid (Valvoline Dot 3/4 synthetic).
That led to my tearing down all four of them and installing MWB kits all around.
No issues after that, but PITA!
Here's maybe some of our Belville washer confusion...
There were five cupped washers, but one flat one corroded in place against the caliper.
Both calipers were this same way.
Another thing was happening after the threaded plunger rod went in.
All washers and linkage installed, but not the piston.
I'd cycle the rod and linkage to be sure it was moving freely,
And it wasn't, kind of binding.
Then, pushing a bit, it went CRACK! and suddenly freed up,
Now moving freely through its whole travel.
Not sure what that was, because it's all buried in grease and a PITA to pull,
But interesting, nonetheless.
Glad i was monkeying with it before the piston went in,
Because now they both move freely and correctly.
Moved on to pedal assembly,
And Gad! those rats made a mess of things up under the dash.
Something else i had to re-do was the "stack washers into the spring" trick.
Grabbed some too-small washers and they migrated to the inside of the spring.
DOH!
That took a while to fix. They were wedged in good.
Always use big washers, folks.
Anyhow, Mom yelled me off the project about dinnertime and i snapped this pic.
Not the best but shows what we got.
Using the old masters to mock up and figure out where everything goes.
Almost ready for our sleeved cylinder to arrive...
We'll fight to victory!
Yesterday since the kid was at school i decided to finish off these brakes.
Had initially gotten rebuild kits from a guy on the forum here who claimed they were OE Italian.
Since the rear kits didn't include o rings, i got a kit from MWB, and fronts as well for good measure.
MWB kit was from Slovenia?
Complete and included o rings.
New inner seal was soft and pliable, with a shiny surface compared to "OE Italian".
Since I'd already installed these old ones on the other three calipers, i decided to continue.
When the -last- caliper went together it started oozing when you pumped the e-brake lever.
Bubbles and black goo would come out.
Inner ring was dissolving in the brake fluid (Valvoline Dot 3/4 synthetic).
That led to my tearing down all four of them and installing MWB kits all around.
No issues after that, but PITA!
Here's maybe some of our Belville washer confusion...
There were five cupped washers, but one flat one corroded in place against the caliper.
Both calipers were this same way.
Another thing was happening after the threaded plunger rod went in.
All washers and linkage installed, but not the piston.
I'd cycle the rod and linkage to be sure it was moving freely,
And it wasn't, kind of binding.
Then, pushing a bit, it went CRACK! and suddenly freed up,
Now moving freely through its whole travel.
Not sure what that was, because it's all buried in grease and a PITA to pull,
But interesting, nonetheless.
Glad i was monkeying with it before the piston went in,
Because now they both move freely and correctly.
Moved on to pedal assembly,
And Gad! those rats made a mess of things up under the dash.
Something else i had to re-do was the "stack washers into the spring" trick.
Grabbed some too-small washers and they migrated to the inside of the spring.
DOH!
That took a while to fix. They were wedged in good.
Always use big washers, folks.
Anyhow, Mom yelled me off the project about dinnertime and i snapped this pic.
Not the best but shows what we got.
Using the old masters to mock up and figure out where everything goes.
Almost ready for our sleeved cylinder to arrive...
We'll fight to victory!
Last edited:
SuperTopo
True Classic
This is my special tool:
Similar concept, you hook the spring on the belly, the tip of the bent screwdriver is hooked on the pedal shaft and you can lever it up and on.
Clatter
True Classic
Oh yeah, we got it together…
Used a fairly inert ‘universal’ kind of grease.
It’s Red Grease. It’s red, so it must be good for the application right?
Nice to contrast with black parts and white bushing.
A sort of side benefit for powder coating pedal assembly is that the bushing fits super tight into the big mounting bracket.
Instead of cleaning away the powder from the ID of the bracket holes i decided to leave it and instead drive the bushing home tight.
Should help keep it from spinning.
Masters are not-quite-rebuildable, used for mock up and labeled accordingly.
Calipers:
Anxious to see if any of this stuff actually holds fluid!
Used a fairly inert ‘universal’ kind of grease.
It’s Red Grease. It’s red, so it must be good for the application right?
Nice to contrast with black parts and white bushing.
A sort of side benefit for powder coating pedal assembly is that the bushing fits super tight into the big mounting bracket.
Instead of cleaning away the powder from the ID of the bracket holes i decided to leave it and instead drive the bushing home tight.
Should help keep it from spinning.
Masters are not-quite-rebuildable, used for mock up and labeled accordingly.
Calipers:
Anxious to see if any of this stuff actually holds fluid!
Last edited:
Rupunzell
Bernice Loui
Ok enough..
Flatten those two rectangular washers before install. These are designed to move/adjust the in/out position of the steering wheel if the driver impacts the steering wheel and part of how the steering column folds away during a driver mash with the steering wheel and column..
Bernice
Flatten those two rectangular washers before install. These are designed to move/adjust the in/out position of the steering wheel if the driver impacts the steering wheel and part of how the steering column folds away during a driver mash with the steering wheel and column..
Bernice
kmead
Old enough to know better
Really nice looking workOh yeah, we got it together…
Used a fairly inert ‘universal’ kind of grease.
It’s Red Grease. It’s red, so it must be good for the application right?
Nice to contrast with black parts and white bushing.
View attachment 84361
A sort of side benefit for powder coating pedal assembly is that the bushing fits super tight into the big mounting bracket.
Instead of cleaning away the powder from the ID of the bracket holes i decided to leave it and instead drive the bushing home tight.
Should help keep it from spinning.
Masters are not-quite-rebuildable, used for mock up and labeled accordingly.
View attachment 84360
Calipers:
View attachment 84359
Anxious to see if any of this stuff actually holds fluid!
Last edited:
rx1900
1981 X1/9
Oh yeah, we got it together…
Used a fairly inert ‘universal’ kind of grease.
It’s Red Grease. It’s red, so it must be good for the application right?
Nice to contrast with black parts and white bushing.
View attachment 84361
A sort of side benefit for powder coating pedal assembly is that the bushing fits super tight into the big mounting bracket.
Instead of cleaning away the powder from the ID of the bracket holes i decided to leave it and instead drive the bushing home tight.
Should help keep it from spinning.
Masters are not-quite-rebuildable, used for mock up and labeled accordingly.
View attachment 84360
Hey Clatter. I've been following your fine progress...and most admire your dedication and fine workmanship...not to mention your brilliant use of enforced child labour.....
But FWIW...and I realize this is only an initial mock-up....do be aware you have those long bolts that hold the masters onto the pedal box....in backwards !!! They came from the factory the other way round.....with the bolt heads on the heater box side. Theory is....that way one could possibly change out the clutch master cylinder with the pedal box in situ.....but you knew that, right ?
Clatter
True Classic
Thanks for the help with this affair.
This is -exactly- why these forums are great.
People with experience taking the time to observe and share is what it's all about.
Even if i carefully keep track of how things went together during disassembly,
A PO (or kid) might not.
'rx1900'
You just saved us some trouble when the master starts leaking,
Perhaps we will be able to change it in in-situ.
Bernice
Thanks for helping in so many ways.
Karl
Your assistance has been appreciated as well.
As for the column break-away...
Obviously, the car broke down in busy-enough traffic and the PO forgot where to push from.
That, or he was beating his head against the wheel in frustration...
This is -exactly- why these forums are great.
People with experience taking the time to observe and share is what it's all about.
Even if i carefully keep track of how things went together during disassembly,
A PO (or kid) might not.
'rx1900'
You just saved us some trouble when the master starts leaking,
Perhaps we will be able to change it in in-situ.
Bernice
Thanks for helping in so many ways.
Karl
Your assistance has been appreciated as well.
As for the column break-away...
Obviously, the car broke down in busy-enough traffic and the PO forgot where to push from.
That, or he was beating his head against the wheel in frustration...
Last edited:
Clatter
True Classic
A little hiatus to retrieve a kid from college for the summer,
And we have him unmasking.
Got our big red yard table free again
(nature abhors a clean spot)
Wiring harnesses spread about for cleaning and inspection.
Big shallow pan of Simple Green and water, toothbrushes and compressed air.
Look! the wires are actually different colors!
Cut away old tape, clean, dry, wrap new tape upon.
Any rat chew spots are addressed, taped up, or maybe some shrink wrap.
For now, it's all about cleaning and identifying issues.
We're not popping apart all connectors for cleaning, - they aren't necessarily dirty down inside.
Once we have all of the bad spots identified and everything cleaned, we'll get out the electrical tools.
The PO was certainly a bigger vandal than his rats.
Luckily, we have this other old harness for correct patch pieces.
We're gonna need 'em!
And we have him unmasking.
Got our big red yard table free again
(nature abhors a clean spot)
Wiring harnesses spread about for cleaning and inspection.
Big shallow pan of Simple Green and water, toothbrushes and compressed air.
Look! the wires are actually different colors!
Cut away old tape, clean, dry, wrap new tape upon.
Any rat chew spots are addressed, taped up, or maybe some shrink wrap.
For now, it's all about cleaning and identifying issues.
We're not popping apart all connectors for cleaning, - they aren't necessarily dirty down inside.
Once we have all of the bad spots identified and everything cleaned, we'll get out the electrical tools.
The PO was certainly a bigger vandal than his rats.
Luckily, we have this other old harness for correct patch pieces.
We're gonna need 'em!
Last edited:
Clatter
True Classic
And then the question keeps nagging me;
Do we strip down useless ancillary parts of the harness?
Power windows, door buzzer, stupid box that reminds you to change the cat...
Given the increased propensity for battery drain or confusion,
Less is best.
Given Murphy, the thing most likely to give issues is the one you touched last.
Let sleeping dogs lie,
Or simplify?
Do we strip down useless ancillary parts of the harness?
Power windows, door buzzer, stupid box that reminds you to change the cat...
Given the increased propensity for battery drain or confusion,
Less is best.
Given Murphy, the thing most likely to give issues is the one you touched last.
Let sleeping dogs lie,
Or simplify?
motoTrooper
True Classic
That's always a hard one, I stripped a harness of unneeded stuff when I built a turbo-diesel Isuzu Trooper (I miss that one). It was a bunch of work that helped simplify diagnosing later as half of it was redundant wiring and connectors for RHD models. I wasn't trying to lose curb weight on that one just gaining insight and understanding which can be a tremendous help later when something frustrating comes up (as it will inevitably). Simplify so say I.And then the question keeps nagging me;
Do we strip down useless ancillary parts of the harness?
Power windows, door buzzer, stupid box that reminds you to change the cat...
Given the increased propensity for battery drain or confusion,
Less is best.
Given Murphy, the thing most likely to give issues is the one you touched last.
Let sleeping dogs lie,
Or simplify?
Clatter
True Classic
Had a great day with the guys.
While they washed i did ground crew with things like soda blasting relays and misc.
Several hours later we got the front harness done and the main harness almost.
Only the dash and main fusebox/relay cluster left.
Clean on right, pending left.
Nice to have these colors appear.
Before below, after above.
Almost there.
Going to rest up and zero in on that last big clusterfusk tomorrow.
Maybe get to cleaning/grinding/scraping/scuffing the passenger compartment for paint as well.
Maybe.
While they washed i did ground crew with things like soda blasting relays and misc.
Several hours later we got the front harness done and the main harness almost.
Only the dash and main fusebox/relay cluster left.
Clean on right, pending left.
Nice to have these colors appear.
Before below, after above.
Almost there.
Going to rest up and zero in on that last big clusterfusk tomorrow.
Maybe get to cleaning/grinding/scraping/scuffing the passenger compartment for paint as well.
Maybe.