New long time project ideas

so looks like I got the ok to move on to adding the next project (138k Student loan is gone after almost 30 years of payments. different topic I will discuss offline if needed, no need to shift it here)
So here is where I am currently heavily researching. A locost 7. I like it because it is small and light, it will be a long term project, Will be learning alot as I go.
was originally looking at a miata for the base as it is quite popular. but my brain keeps slipping to possibly using a 124 spider classic. One of the reasons is because a donor car for the miata is way higher in cost where I could get a rusted out spider pretty cheap. It can be rusted as I would only need the drive train, front and rear hubs/spindles.
on the miata side, I would have IRS, a TON of support and go fast goodies. along with the miata's reliability. (not that a 124 isnt reliable)

Odie.
I am with Carl on this, the Locost is really about simplicity. Aside from going to an electronic ignition I would keep the electrics and other widgetry to a minimum. I also question the real value you would get from the complexity of the Miata rear suspension. I do like the Miata front suspension design for the way the shocks and springs are as well as general serviceability of the ball joints etc. I don’t like the lack of suspension travel in the Miata suspension in general.

I am not saying use the Fiat live axle, but a live axle isn’t a bad thing. Of course you could go to the DeDion rear suspension some 7 variations have adopted.

There was a guy in Australia who made a mid engine Locost which looked good and used a typical FWD suspension, subframe etc from a FWD car. Still tube framed and so on. If this piques your interest I will look to see if I can find anything I saved about it. It was a long while ago…
 
thoughts and ponderings. going backwards.
Mid engine. that was my first thought. as I really like the idea. I am far more familiar with it. where I run into road blocks, and I realize this is a learning project, is how to set up the suspension. mainly because I am used to the X swap and it used the X suspension. I am just getting further into the locost reading and watching vids and maybe it will give me more insight on where I could go with it. I reverted back to the front engine RWD because there are plans for it.
This brings me to the next part. Fiat vs miata. for the same reasons above, there are plans already for the miata based. knowing that they all seem to need to be modified, but the basis is already there. I am not sold on the IRS either. I a not looking to make the fastest car out there, and really Nascar was pretty damn quick with a live axle. I would replicate the current fiat rear pretty easily onto the locost chassis, as what I have learned is you build the base, then modify. Unless you have mad CAD skills (which I dont) and can mock it all up first. one guy who I am chatting with said that even though he drew it all up first, he found he had to cut and redesign on the fly anyway.

where do I currently end up?
Finishing up watching a ton of vids. finish reading the book. possibly pull down some sketch up drawings of mid engine locost.
If I go Mid engine, that is a longer convo with sourcing front suspension that will have the same bolt pattern as the FWD donor for the rear, although I have seen where some just use the FWD hubs with nothing attached, sketchy, but.....
If I go RWD, I for sure am pondering more of going to the spider. I like the idea of simplicity. I like the idea I am a fiat addict. I am not looking for absolute power. more of the open to the elements feel the drive, back road wind in your hair type of vehicle. this would give me this for sure. so I would mock up the spider rear end to be the same on the locost. I think I could use the current front a arms and where they are on the spider as a measuring guide. Could use the actual a arms, but stamped dont look as cool as tubular. Yes, there is what I think it cool factor in this. the other plus on the spider is the possibility of side drafts poking out the side of the hood. another "cool" factor.

Odie
 
one of the things in there is it uses beefy (truck) tie rod ends for the upper ball joints to make adjustments easy. does anyone know the size/taper of the hole where the upper ball joint goes in? still gathering info to see if I can find the parts avail. I am thinking I may have to ream out the uppers to match the tie rod I get, but want to make sure I am not having to modify it more than a mm or 2. . IF and when I decide what I am doing I will create a new thread. with all the info.

Odie
 
Like Carl just posted, the Locost/Super 7 really is a mid-engine vehicle. It has a perfect 50/50 weight balance due to how far back the engine, trans, passengers sit. That's actually better than many mid-engine vehicles. And doesn't it include the front suspension for a coilover set up? I believe the rear suspension is also part of the kit? You just need to add the matching mounting brackets to your choice of (solid/live axle) rear end. To me it seams converting a "7" chassis to accept a FWD unit in a mid position is rather counter productive. If you really want a mid-engine vehicle then get one of the other kit cars designed that way....there's plenty out there.
 
Aren't Super 7 clones front mid engine with the motor behind the front axle line?
yup. maybe I should have been clearer. I like mid engine located behind the driver with the driver more forward ;)
Also. I am building from scratch. No "kit".
I am not going to do a locost with the engine behind me. Doing the standard engine in front of me but behind the front axles rwd.
front and rear will both be dual a arm with coil overs with miata irs. Engine is looking like it will be the miata 1.8 probably megasquirt as I have gotten used to tuning/programming from the honda. But may just stay stock. Who knows. Still in planning phase. Picking up the blueprints tonight from the printers as I had them blown up to 18x24 so my old eyes can see the demensions and angles better.  


Odie
 
Also. I am building from scratch. No "kit".
Ahhh, I missed that part. However my comment about not modifying the Locost plans for a mid-mounted engine still apply. I'm sure there are other plans available for a true mid-engine project. But I've always thought the Lotus 7 was kind of cool. And I'm like you, I definitely prefer a true mid-engine layout, and a more modern design overall. But there's just something about the simplicity and effectiveness of the 7. ;)

I would go with a Miata rather than the antiquated design of the 124. Maybe add a turbo to it? But that's just me. The Miata engine even looks like a Lotus. :D
 
Ankles almost healed. (Although my wife still thinks I am way off. Decision has been made to go locost but I am still pondering doing a locost midlana. There are so many more fwd drivetrains out there. Miata, rotary and bike engines being the most popular for standard locost with the engine up front (yes still "mid engine" ) where there are a ton more options for a fwd mounted midship. I have plans for both and costs for the frames are pretty much the same. Here is an image of the midlana without a body.
Screenshot_20231105_172752_Gallery.jpg


Thoughts? Opinions? Like I really need to ask for opinions from this group lol

Odie
 
I'd definitely go for the 'true' mid-engine layout of the "midlana". Not only do I prefer the classic mid layout with the engine behind the passengers, but as you say there are many more FWD options available. You can pick the features you want, and they tend to be less expensive and easier to find in good condition. In fact I've been looking for a decent front engine rear drive set up to swap into a project vehicle and I keep finding big disadvantages with the few options available.
 
I like the MidLana option, you can pick darn near anything you want. There are so many great transverse, FWD options out there to choose from. The 3.2 L J32A3 and 3.5 L J35A8 Honda V6s with 6 speed manual and limited slip diff would be fun.

I also think the DF Goblin kit has the potential to be fun.
 
I like the MidLana option, you can pick darn near anything you want. There are so many great transverse, FWD options out there to choose from. The 3.2 L J32A3 and 3.5 L J35A8 Honda V6s with 6 speed manual and limited slip diff would be fun.

I also think the DF Goblin kit has the potential to be fun.
I looked at the df. Talked to them quite a few times. Too costly. I should have way less into the entire project than their "kit" alone. From others, it will be about $1500 to complete the base chassis with metal, gas and wire (mig). So at that point I will be pretty much where the base kit is. If I wanted the project to be quick and painless. Goblin would be it. I also have thought about the j series after seeing boosted bois rail they have a turbo one in.

Odie
 
I looked at the df. Talked to them quite a few times. Too costly. I should have way less into the entire project than their "kit" alone. From others, it will be about $1500 to complete the base chassis with metal, gas and wire (mig). So at that point I will be pretty much where the base kit is. If I wanted the project to be quick and painless. Goblin would be it. I also have thought about the j series after seeing boosted bois rail they have a turbo one in.

Odie
A turbo J-series would be wild.
 
Ankles almost healed. (Although my wife still thinks I am way off. Decision has been made to go locost but I am still pondering doing a locost midlana. There are so many more fwd drivetrains out there. Miata, rotary and bike engines being the most popular for standard locost with the engine up front (yes still "mid engine" ) where there are a ton more options for a fwd mounted midship. I have plans for both and costs for the frames are pretty much the same. Here is an image of the midlana without a body.


Thoughts? Opinions? Like I really need to ask for opinions from this group lol

Odie

If going the turbo power train route, Saab B204/B234. Use a petro engine designed for turbo instead of a petro engine with a turbo added... later.
The Tronic engine management is essentially open source allowing much "tinkering".. The Saab B204/B234 has a long proven record for un-bust_ability, more power than you're going to know what to do with (500Bhp/500Lb/ft on stock internals, nee 900 Bhp/700Lb/ft has been done more than once and reliable) with reasonable parts availability.
&
Saab F35 or later GM variant transaxle, Varied ratios available, 6 speed, LSD if needed.

Basic petro engine requirements for a "performance" oriented engine, short stroke with a bore of 85-90mm, con rod to stroke ratio of about 2 once this ratio nears 1.6 (Miata BP series), the petro engine becomes an Econo-box noting special petro motor, four valve pent roof head, twin cam, cast iron block with closed deck, forged chrome-moly steel crank & nitrided journals, over designed cooling system as delivered, long proven record of being "hot rodded" with few problems and few explosions


Bernice
 
or.... Start with an X. Section it down the middle and widen by, say 250mm [10 inches]. Do a transverse cut as well behind the rear pillar and add say 100mm to move the rear wheels back and enlarge the engine bay. Yes, lots of new metal but in the least shapely parts. Delete the windscreen and pillars and add a roll structure and cycle screen, weld the doors in and you have a FIATlandia...

Powertrain? Well the FIAT 2l will now fit easily :) Suspension? X style and nearly all X. Will need new steering rack but there are very many possible donors for that. You would probably choose the donor and then do the widening to nicely suit its exact dimensions.
 
or.... Start with an X. Section it down the middle and widen by, say 250mm [10 inches]. Do a transverse cut as well behind the rear pillar and add say 100mm to move the rear wheels back and enlarge the engine bay. Yes, lots of new metal but in the least shapely parts. Delete the windscreen and pillars and add a roll structure and cycle screen, weld the doors in and you have a FIATlandia...

Powertrain? Well the FIAT 2l will now fit easily :) Suspension? X style and nearly all X. Will need new steering rack but there are very many possible donors for that. You would probably choose the donor and then do the widening to nicely suit its exact dimensions.
Have thought, even have a possible shell lined up. Would love to go totally wild with an x as the base.

Odie
 
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