lookforjoe
True Classic
All bonding was performed over bare scuffed metal. I used an angle grinder to cut it back, that give the surface a nice 'tooth' for the Fusor 208b to bite into
Preparing For Dallara Body Kit
- Thread starter lookforjoe
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- box body box dallara kit
All bonding was performed over bare scuffed metal. I used an angle grinder to cut it back, that give the surface a nice 'tooth' for the Fusor 208b to bite into
lookforjoe
True Classic
I much prefer the line cut on yours, without that bump out - so I copied it
I also prefer the way the opening arch top edge runs to the very back, but I'm not going that far.
Also filling in all the seams, required some blending as the panels are not flat
With primer to check the lines - no I see it's not perfectly aligned with the crease line
Lower cutback - some detail rework required on that edge...
Rear section primed - feeling much happier about the way it looks
now
Other fender almost there
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stingray250
True Classic
BONDO!!!!!!!!!!!!
BONDO!!!!! Makes the word go round.... :excited:
BONDO!!!!! Makes the word go round.... :excited:
kmead
Old enough to know better
Happy to see
Sorry I was busy with other things over the last few days.
Very happy to see how you are proceeding, particularly in the area where the rear panel meets the new fender.
I would have left the gap of the rear panel rather than fill it in as I feel it defines the rear and cut lines make it clear the car was not molded out of one piece, but that's me. It also carries the line down from the rear deck to the base of the car in back.
Perhaps revisit the area near the exhaust opening making it less hard edged to better match the other details of the car:
Looking great as always!
Sorry I was busy with other things over the last few days.
Very happy to see how you are proceeding, particularly in the area where the rear panel meets the new fender.
I would have left the gap of the rear panel rather than fill it in as I feel it defines the rear and cut lines make it clear the car was not molded out of one piece, but that's me. It also carries the line down from the rear deck to the base of the car in back.
Perhaps revisit the area near the exhaust opening making it less hard edged to better match the other details of the car:
Looking great as always!
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Sorry I was busy with other things over the last few days.
Very happy to see how you are proceeding, particularly in the area where the rear panel meets the new fender.
I would have left the gap of the rear panel rather than fill it in as I feel it defines the rear and cut lines make it clear the car was not molded out of one piece, but that's me. It also carries the line down from the rear deck to the base of the car in back.
Perhaps revisit the area near the exhaust opening making it less hard edged to better match the other details of the car:
Looking great as always!
Softening that hard edge makes sense. Not sure about cutting back the lower fender ridge - that would be tricky.
Got most of the rear worked out - will revisit the cutbacks with Karl's suggestion. Cutouts for exhaust need more work.
Got to get the head work done. So, wheels are back on for now
Happy with the fender blending
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kmead
Old enough to know better
Sorry I wasn't clear, the lower fender would be adding material to the face to reduce the height of the offset, to get a better blend going from the fender to the exhaust cut out rise.
Keep the line along the bottom, no cutting, just bring that face outward so there is less change in height from the low area to the high area of the exhaust opening surround.
I am picking at a nit here (it Is what designers do...)
It's looking great, you are doing an excellent job and your choices of how to manage the surfaces have been spot on. Suitably impressed, as my friend Scott Stickle would say. :headbang:
lookforjoe
True Classic
lookforjoe
True Classic
Now I got it - I'll play around with that after the balance of the external blending is taken care of.
Started blending the air ducts - that's gonna be a royal PITA. Filled the gaps with the fibre-reinforced filler. The upper junction is goign to be interesting. Even if it's not visible, it still needs to be right.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Got a few hours on the body today - removed all the vertical surface screws, sanded back the edges, filled the holes & first round of blending the edges to the sheet metal. Did some more work in the air ducts also. Filled the top fender to pillar seams as well.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Thanks, Mike!
Worked on the Duck tail extensions to align them better with the fender/taillamp contour.
Yesterday I bonded a series of aluminum tabs to the ducktail ends to use as attachment points.
Started working on the templates for the additions
Three pieces. Bottom edges will be detailed/contoured after the three panels are bonded. Need to allow space for the trunk lid to pull down for the latch.
left side
back view
Aluminum sections cut from the templates. Top and back bonded. Tomorrow I can form the edges & bond the outer face, then hopefully get some filler on to blend it in.
Worked on the Duck tail extensions to align them better with the fender/taillamp contour.
Yesterday I bonded a series of aluminum tabs to the ducktail ends to use as attachment points.
Started working on the templates for the additions
Three pieces. Bottom edges will be detailed/contoured after the three panels are bonded. Need to allow space for the trunk lid to pull down for the latch.
left side
back view
Aluminum sections cut from the templates. Top and back bonded. Tomorrow I can form the edges & bond the outer face, then hopefully get some filler on to blend it in.
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jvandyke
True Classic
nice
I thought at first you were going to just have the bill extensions on the fenders and leave the gap for the trunk to open (square it off) I know the lid compresses a bit as it catches then comes back up, wouldn't that have been easier? or are you really wanting to get rid of that lid gap? it would be a bit work to square off that cap too though
I thought at first you were going to just have the bill extensions on the fenders and leave the gap for the trunk to open (square it off) I know the lid compresses a bit as it catches then comes back up, wouldn't that have been easier? or are you really wanting to get rid of that lid gap? it would be a bit work to square off that cap too though
kmead
Old enough to know better
Nice detail.
My only worry is in the change of material that you will end up with cracks there as they heat cycle. Aluminum and fiberglass have different expansion and contraction coefficients so you may end up fighting that in the future.
Perhaps bond a shaped rigid urethane foam element to the side of the spoiler and then glassing it into the rest of the spoiler. (Urethane works with polyester resin, styrofoam will melt. Though you can put a coating of several layers of latex paint over styrofoam to act as a barrier and use polyester resin over that)
Beyond that, drive on! Looking good.
My only worry is in the change of material that you will end up with cracks there as they heat cycle. Aluminum and fiberglass have different expansion and contraction coefficients so you may end up fighting that in the future.
Perhaps bond a shaped rigid urethane foam element to the side of the spoiler and then glassing it into the rest of the spoiler. (Urethane works with polyester resin, styrofoam will melt. Though you can put a coating of several layers of latex paint over styrofoam to act as a barrier and use polyester resin over that)
Beyond that, drive on! Looking good.
lookforjoe
True Classic
I thought about that - I know Mustangs do it that way with their duckbill spoilers, and I seem to recall several European cars doing it like that also. Problem is that doesn't seem practical to me, as I do use the trunk, and having bits sticking up on the fenders will get in the way - I feel I will likely 'whack' them using the trunk. The other issue is that the fibreglass lid is narrower than stock, so the end gaps are pretty wide. I felt adding to the lid & just allowing enough gap for the trunk closure would be the cleaner way to go.
lookforjoe
True Classic
Mototrooper commented on the ducktail not following the lamp/fender lines a couple pages back, that made me think about it. I photoshopped a version:
I hadn't thought about the dissimilar materials being an issue like that :sad:. I assumed the epoxy acts as a buffer since it is designed for bonding metals to plastics/fibreglass, but of course the filler is just bondo, so if there is enough expansion/contraction presumably that will crack? I'm going to keep going with it though. All my headlamp surround / insets are made the same way.
I tried forming some foam cell material to attach to the ends, and wasn't happy with shaping it, or the idea of a sheer bond with no overlap or through-attachments. I have these sections reinforced in each attaching plane - the reinforcing strip that runs along the back of the trunk also wraps around 5" on each side, with a 90º horizontal extension plate for the base of the ducktail extension to adhere to. I was hoping that will limit potential give in a area that will see much movement as a moving part.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
Worked on the metal bonding and then the filler work along the back of the lid, and preliminary filler on the top side
More tomorrow. Continuing the work on the ducts, its taking awhile
Also cut back the right fender again along the top rear half, more filler, putty and sanding to get a few ripples out. Hopefully done with that now.
Back vertical still needs much work.
More tomorrow. Continuing the work on the ducts, its taking awhile
Also cut back the right fender again along the top rear half, more filler, putty and sanding to get a few ripples out. Hopefully done with that now.
Back vertical still needs much work.
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lookforjoe
True Classic
More work on the spoiler today.
filler work done on the caps, startign the putty work
top edge flows OK
also trimmed the contour along the bottom edge where they leave the lid edge & overlap the fender
checking the follow through up the fender line into the spoiler
side view - bottom edge needs cleanup
Had to cut the lower ridge of the duct on an angle to get it close to the recess line in the door
drivers side is closer to alignment - will only have to taper it a little
Still need to blend the back face of the spoiler, it's difficult to work with the compound curves.
filler work done on the caps, startign the putty work
top edge flows OK
also trimmed the contour along the bottom edge where they leave the lid edge & overlap the fender
checking the follow through up the fender line into the spoiler
side view - bottom edge needs cleanup
Had to cut the lower ridge of the duct on an angle to get it close to the recess line in the door
drivers side is closer to alignment - will only have to taper it a little
Still need to blend the back face of the spoiler, it's difficult to work with the compound curves.
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motoTrooper
True Classic
More great work!
Looking forward to seeing it in just primer even! Looks super clean and proper. Made more work for you but it's the details that complete the design. Hope you haven't run out of elbow grease!
Looking forward to seeing it in just primer even! Looks super clean and proper. Made more work for you but it's the details that complete the design. Hope you haven't run out of elbow grease!