Preparing For Dallara Body Kit

Dr.Jeff said:
I certainly hope that valence is usable once you get it stripped. It appeared to have only surface rust but you really can't tell until it has been completely cleaned up. Do you have access to a media blaster?
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I do have a soda - blaster, but the acid treatment has worked well for me with other similar gauge brackets & hardware.
 
This is after a few hours partially submerged in the acid - I had to make a shallow tray, it doesn't work unless submerged. You can see the division line where the panel was above the acid bath
. Looking pretty good so far
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A few years ago I found a great tub for projects like this at one of the big-box home improvement stores. It was in the section with the concrete, cinder blocks, mortar, etc. They had two sizes to choose from, the larger one roughly around 2.5' x 3' x 10", rectangle with sloping ends. They were something like $9 and $12. Made of a very heavy PVC plastic, black color, and have proven to be quite durable. I think they're intended for hand mixing small batches of cement or such. Excellent for when you need a large tub to soak parts, check for air leaks, collect dripping fluids, or whatever.

Here's what they look like:
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What about a soft drink or water? with the top cur off?

Here we get our drinking water in big 8 litre bottles and we use the old bottles for lots of things, cut the top off small disposable bucket. cut the side off long thin fluid catcher (say oil change.

But in this case from memory would it fit in a 2l bottle? (obviously not all off it!)
 
Great job. I see a bit of pitting in places. I was afraid that might happen but really couldn't tell without removing all the crud first. Overall it seems to be fairly solid though. Hopefully it won't require too much finish work to make it right?
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Great job. I see a bit of pitting in places. I was afraid that might happen but really couldn't tell without removing all the crud first. Overall it seems to be fairly solid though. Hopefully it won't require too much finish work to make it right?
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It is pretty pitted, and weights much less than before :)
That's OK, I haven't decided how I'm going to fill the pitting, or if it's worth it. Given the exhaust proximity, any filler is likely to pull away from the heat.
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The proximity to the exhaust is why these panels always rust in the first place - over time it bakes all the paint off. And regardless of how it is refinished it will likely happen again eventually. But it should survive pretty long before that; consider how long it took the first time. So I'd use whatever process you normally would for any such surface. Either high build primer, or if any pits are deep enough then add filler.

Also you could add a layer of heat insulation to the inside surface.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
The proximity to the exhaust is why these panels always rust in the first place - over time it bakes all the paint off. And regardless of how it is refinished it will likely happen again eventually. But it should survive pretty long before that; consider how long it took the first time. So I'd use whatever process you normally would for any such surface. Either high build primer, or if any pits are deep enough then add filler.

Also you could add a layer of heat insulation to the inside surface.
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Yes - this time I'll add the DEI heat shielding, same as I used for the engine bay when I did the PLM header work, I still have a fair amount. For the outer surface, I have a lightweight filler (UPOL Gold) that I used for the Dallara panel work, so that stuff is good for very thin coating of surfaces.
 
Otherwise you're welcome to try the other panel that I have. As you saw, it has a little less rust but needs some body work. However I think the one you have is better overall.
 
Dr.Jeff said:
Otherwise you're welcome to try the other panel that I have. As you saw, it has a little less rust but needs some body work. However I think the one you have is better overall.
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No, thank you - I'm perfectly happy with this one. It will be just fine. :)
 
Looks pretty glossy, but that specular reflection des lokk a little bumpy. Do you think you need to wet sand it a final time or is that just as good as the surface is going to get?
 
LarryC said:
Looks pretty glossy, but that specular reflection des lokk a little bumpy. Do you think you need to wet sand it a final time or is that just as good as the surface is going to get?
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Once it's hardened I can wet sand it. That should remove the orange peel
 
X1/9 is still at the bodyshop - the frame was checked & door gap corrected back in August, however they haven't painted/blended the spoiler or chipped paint by the door yet. May not happen until Oct at this point. I trust the quality of work at this shop, so I'm not willing to take it back & try somewhere else.
 
Finally, the X1/9 is home. I took care of the squirrelly front end - when I drove it to the bodyshop I knew something was wrong. The obvious thing was the DS radius rod was bent- not photographed well, however there is a distinct arc in it.

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However I think what was more of an issue was the aft radius rod poly bushings were compressed to about an inch. The wheels were sitting too far forward, which presumably caused the 'float' I was feeling. Thankfully I had a pair to replace those, but the forward ones are soft by comparison, so when I tighten the rod nuts, the forward one compresses more than the aft.
Anyway, front end feels good now.

EDIT - ordered a set of rubber ones from MWB, these soft poly ones are not reliable on my setup.
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I will need to redo all the thin tape stripe, not clear how but it has all cracked
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Have to replace the O2 sensor to get rid of the CEL, the rear valance, then some overall cleanup.
 
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Unfortunately you're not the first person to report those yellow poly bushings from VAS did not last.

Regarding the cracking tape stripes. Here in the desert - with off the chart UV levels, excessively intense heat, and virtually zero humidity - vinyl will crack like that in very short time. Especially if it isn't of the highest quality (there's a wide quality range of them out there). It might be possible the material provided to you for the narrower stripes is not of the same quality as the larger stuff?
 
Happy Thanksgiving to all, BTW 😁

Dr.Jeff said:
Unfortunately you're not the first person to report those yellow poly bushings from VAS did not last.

Regarding the cracking tape stripes. Here in the desert - with off the chart UV levels, excessively intense heat, and virtually zero humidity - vinyl will crack like that in very short time. Especially if it isn't of the highest quality (there's a wide quality range of them out there). It might be possible the material provided to you for the narrower stripes is not of the same quality as the larger stuff?
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I have 2 versions of the thin stripe, one was sold as 3M, the other not. Both came in plain dispenser boxes, so likely neither is. The wide tape is definitely 3M.

I'll have to peel it all off.
I ordered new rubber bushings from MWB.

Today I had time after a morning obligation to replace the O2 sensor, and weld the tailpipe tip back on. Started prepping the valance. Have to locate my roll of heat shield so I can extend the coverage to the left

this is the 3rd O2 sensor in as many years. 1st one that is Honda-packaged Denso
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Made a start on cleaning up the engine bay, they must have left it out in the rain at least once, something I never do without at least running the motor to dry it off.
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