Will motor oil mix with gear oil in tranny?

PurdyDot

True Classic
Just a quicky.
Needing to find out if motor oil and gear oil can be "mixed" in the trans.
Basically I'm just wanting to find out if it would be safe to add some castrol 20w50 motor oil to what is already in the transaxle?
Current Oil in trans *smells* like regular gear oil, so I'm assuming that's what is in it.
Anyway, I just thought I should make sure it wouldn't conflict/react badly before I did anything.
Would rather just empty out whatever is already in there and just go ahead and switch over to 20w50 motor oil,
but,
so far I only have *one* quart of castrol, and since I already spent all I had on other parts, it'd be *at least* a week before I could afford enough to fill the whole transaxle with motor oil.
The only gear oil I have is in an unmarked walmart (tech brand) container that was probably bought in the early/mid 90's. Since it has no label I have no idea what sort of gear oil it was, so using that might be an even worse idea. lol
 
Just a quicky.
Needing to find out if motor oil and gear oil can be "mixed" in the trans.
Basically I'm just wanting to find out if it would be safe to add some castrol 20w50 motor oil to what is already in the transaxle?
Current Oil in trans *smells* like regular gear oil, so I'm assuming that's what is in it.
Anyway, I just thought I should make sure it wouldn't conflict/react badly before I did anything.
Would rather just empty out whatever is already in there and just go ahead and switch over to 20w50 motor oil,
but,
so far I only have *one* quart of castrol, and since I already spent all I had on other parts, it'd be *at least* a week before I could afford enough to fill the whole transaxle with motor oil.
The only gear oil I have is in an unmarked walmart (tech brand) container that was probably bought in the early/mid 90's. Since it has no label I have no idea what sort of gear oil it was, so using that might be an even worse idea. lol
Why do you want to put 20/50 in the trans? Less resistance? I do not recommend it.
 
No.

Just a quicky. Needing to find out if motor oil and gear oil can be "mixed" in the trans. Basically I'm just wanting to find out if it would be safe to add some castrol 20w50 motor oil to what is already in the transaxle?

Unless you know 100% for sure what's already in the trans is 20w50 motor oil, then I'd say NO, do not mix them. Gear oil & motor oil do not mix well.


Would rather just empty out whatever is already in there and just go ahead and switch over to 20w50 motor oil, but, so far I only have *one* quart of castrol, and since I already spent all I had on other parts, it'd be *at least* a week before I could afford enough to fill the whole transaxle with motor oil.

It only takes 3.3 quarts, so scrounge up another $9-$10 for 2 more quarts of 20w50 & you're there. Don't have the $$ right now? Then wait & change the trans fluid next week. :grin:


The only gear oil I have is in an unmarked walmart (tech brand) container that was probably bought in the early/mid 90's. Since it has no label I have no idea what sort of gear oil it was, so using that might be an even worse idea. lol

No label = DON'T USE. :2c:
 
Not that a week is going to make a difference at this stage of the game, but gear oil with that "regular gear oil smell" is the type of gear oil that you definitely DO NOT want to use in the trans.

The original spec from way back when was GL-1 gear oil, which was a basic oil with no additives harmful to various metals in the trans. It's too caveman so you don't find that on the shelf at you average chain auto parts store anymore. You will find it at NAPAs and the farm-oriented stores in the burbs and out in the country because I gather a lot of farm equipment still uses it.

Most folks on the forum would recommend that you use a modern synthetic non-GL5 gear oil. The favorite around here is Red Line...use MT-90 in hot climates or for heavy duty use like an autocross car; use MTL for all others. It ain't cheap, mail order is $12-15 per.
 
Well said Dan

The sulfurous smelling EP oil is not good for the brass/bronze components. Having said that I have read that modern EP additives are not aggressive to brass now.

A good quality 20W/50 engine oil is ok to use in the X1/9 box. Engine and gear oils have different weight classifications, and 20W/50 is pretty much the same viscosity as 80W gear oil.
 
I think the bigger issue is that EP gear oil is bad for the syncros. EP gear oil is for hypoid gears, which the X1/9 does not have of course.

The Porsche style blocker syncros on 3/4 and 5 don't take kindly to EP gear oil.


I would drain it and put in fresh 20w50 or buy the non EP gear lube as mentioned previously.
 
The unanswered question (or asked) is WHY are you adding oil in the first place?? If it's low, it must be leaking - that should be addressed before anything else.

Some people have found that certain oils will more likely leak past the case or oil seals, don't have any experience with that, so you need to research a little if you have active leaks that require you to now add oil....
 
I have run GL1, 20w-50 and Redline MTL. The gear oil when cold was so thick the car required signficant throttle to get moving and felt like the brake was on! Was fine after a few miles though. I run Redline MTL now and will never look back. Shifts better and easier in all temps. They say it might be more prone to leaking if there's a seal going bad but so far I've not had a problem. Only downside is the stuff is ridiculously priced. I admit as frugal as I am, it's worth it.
 
Well, another cheap alternatve would be to switch to ATF instead of gear oil. Ford did that on their mazda based transmissions in their Escort and Zx2. The Ford Escape, with the same model transmission, used gear oil however, so I think this is a testimony that a thicker lube will protect the parts under high stress, but the ATF is a perfectly acceptable lubricant whan the cars are not being pressed.
 
why 20w50?

Well, I decided to try motor oil based on something written on an xweb page.
this was the page:
http://xwebforums.com/wiki/index.php?title=Transmission#Gearbox_Oil
and here's the part I read:
"Gearbox Oil There are a number of recommended choices for gearbox lubrication:

  • GL1 was the FIAT factory specification. It is still available, and if you just want to stick with the original recommendation, you can. However, lubricant technology has improved a fair amount in the intervening years, and many people are reporting better results with newer synthetics.
  • RedLine MTL or MT90 is a well-regarded modern synthetic. Last I heard, Steve Hoelscher's warranty on rebuilt transmissions required that you use RedLine.
  • Castrol 20w50 motor oil. This sounds wrong because the viscosity is all wrong, but motor oils use a different viscosity scale than gearbox oils, and in fact a 20w50 motor oil is about right.
The one thing that is known not to work is standard EP gear lube like you'll find at a chain auto parts store. The EP additives interfere with operation of the synchros and will eventually damage them."

from that, it seemed like the castrol 20w50 was my best bet for something cheap enough/safe enough to use for now, that was also available locally.
when I decided that though, it really didn't dawn on me that there must already be *something* in the transmission, and that the *something* might be incompatible with whatever I might get to put in with it.
Of course, now that I've actually realized that I have no idea what in the world is actually in there right now, it seems like the only choice is to completely empty it out and start from scratch so that I *will know* what is in there. lol
I'm sure it probably sounds pretty dumb not to think about that kind of thing from the beginning, I won't argue that:p
for perspective though, no matter how good you are about appraising a car before you buy it, you always end up having to operate under a certain level of assumption.
like, before buying a car, how many people would think to have their brake fluid sent and analyzed to make sure it's the recommended stuff? like dot3 or whatever.
well, "one would assume" that what is in the brake system is "brake fluid", but heck, I've heard that things like alcohol have been used as brake fluid in places like russia.
so, while I'm sure that coming across an x that some po decided should switch over to something exotic, like alcohol for brake fluid, would be a chance in a million, taking it for granted that they didn't, is also still just an assumption based on no facts whatsoever isn't it?
I'm rapidly coming to realize that I'd forgotten how little should be taken for granted on second hand cars. lol
Anyway, my decision to change over to motor oil was primarily based on price.
basically, until this car is running well enough to drive down the road, my budget is limited to "cheap, or nothing".

so, rather than having nothing, i was hoping for cheap;)
It's actually the same story as how I got the car in the first place. I could have a broken down fiat, or no fiat.
so i chose broken down. lol :p
 
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yeah, that seems best i guess

It has sunk in that I 100% *do not know* what is currently in there:p
I don't know about waiting till "next week" though.
It's just a phrasing issue that arises because I don't have the same *concept of time* that normal people do.
It's hard to really explain well, but, for example:
most people live on a 24 hour time scale, they sleep maybe an average of 8 hours each "day", and have a 7 day "week".
well, when working on complicated things like working on a car, my time scale for "one day" is more like 48-96 hours.
So I usually pretty much just sleep/recover monday through wednesday, and that is basically "one night" for me.
Then I usually am awake and working from thursday to sunday, and that ends up being like "one day" for me.
Basically, "a day" lasts as long as I can stay awake, and around 96 hours is pretty much my limit because I'm usually in pretty bad shape by then and my body/brain have to rest/recover or break down completely.
So like, when people say things like "it'll only be a week", it sort of blows my mind because my brain still thinks of a week being "7 days/nights" even though, for me, a full day/night cycle is usually around a week long.
So my week would end up being more like 7 weeks, which would be a long time to wait for 2 more bottles of oil. lol
It's like, "Don't worry, we'll get you some oil for christmas." lol :D
Of course, in theory, that would mean that if I only had to wait a "normal week" to do something, then it should only feel like one day has passed...
Unfortunately it doesn't end up working out that way for whatever reason. I guess because it's sort of like how *time slows down when you are waiting for something* because you start noticing how long a minute or an hour feels. and when you are awake up to 96 hours at a time, that's a LOT of hours/minutes in a row to just sit quietly and wait for something.
So, just simply for the sake of survival, I had to give up trying to keep track of "normal time" after my brain was damaged, because it was *literally* driving me insane.
Of course, also in theory, I should be getting a whole lot done on my car each day, considering i've been clocking almost a hundred hours "a day" every time I work on it.
But, again, it doesn't work out quite that way in reality.
Unfortunately, in reality, all it means is that I'm really darned *slow*.
So by the time I've worked around a hundred hours on my car, all I usually end up getting done is what a normal person might get done in one day. lol
And yeah, I really am *THAT* slow.
Anyway, as far as the "unidentified bottle" goes, don't worry, I *will not* be putting it in my car.
:)
 
hehe yeah an autocross car would be nice;)

Not that a week is going to make a difference at this stage of the game, but gear oil with that "regular gear oil smell" is the type of gear oil that you definitely DO NOT want to use in the trans.

The original spec from way back when was GL-1 gear oil, which was a basic oil with no additives harmful to various metals in the trans. It's too caveman so you don't find that on the shelf at you average chain auto parts store anymore. You will find it at NAPAs and the farm-oriented stores in the burbs and out in the country because I gather a lot of farm equipment still uses it.

Most folks on the forum would recommend that you use a modern synthetic non-GL5 gear oil. The favorite around here is Red Line...use MT-90 in hot climates or for heavy duty use like an autocross car; use MTL for all others. It ain't cheap, mail order is $12-15 per.

Ah, aha.
I think you have managed to describe the area I live in quite nicely.
I'm right in the middle of the USA in a very small town that is surrounded by farms.
It's such a small farm town that we don't even have a good farm supply store. Gotta drive about 12 miles just to find one of those. lol
Also, I think the Caveman you speak of is me, because I've spent the last 10 or 12 years almost entirely in my house.
So, since I'm mentally stuck somewhere back around 1996-1998, it's taking me some effort to fully understand what things like GL5 are since it's sort of like they haven't been invented yet.
Heck, when I went to get some brake fluid, I was quite disoriented when there were choices other than DOT3.
Honestly, I've gone outside of my house more times since I got this car than I normally would have in an entire year.
Literally, there have been buildings put up here in town in between the times I would go out.
Of course, that is one of the big reasons I got this car.
Because I *knew* that if I had one, I wouldn't be *able* to stay inside.
I knew it would draw me out, force me out. And in that regard, it has definitely paid off. lol
It has also forced me to become more social with strangers because I have to ask people questions things that I don't fully understand, which was sort of an unexpected bonus side effect:p
Anyway, I recognize some of the terms you used from some of my previous reading, like GL5 and MTL and MT 90, but I still don't fully understand what to do with them.
It's a bit of a mental block I guess. I can make it far enough to understand that redline is good and highly recommended, then something about ep being bad, and something about gl5 and something about synthetics, but I just can't seem to put it all together enough to really make since out of it. I'm missing some link to tie it all together or something.
I can give a bit of a rundown of what I can comprehend so far.
Castrol 20w50: this was listed on an xweb transmission page as useable and I can understand that it should be safe to use.
I've read many posts where people have said they've used it and had good results, enough that I felt confident that I could safely use it.
The only problem I have with Castrol 20w50 is that it still seems shocking to me that motor oil could cost over $2 a quart, but considering the other crazy prices I saw, it was actually one of the least shocking. lol
Uh yeah, like I said, mentally I don't really comprehend that "time has passed" since 1998 or so.
So for me, going to the grocery store is kind of like in the "Back to the future" series when they went forward in time and it was like $20,000 to buy a coke.
Anyway, probably the reason I can deal with "Castol 20w50" so much more easily is because it is SUCH a specific recommendation. I mean, it's right there on the shelf at walmart and there's no way to mistake it for anything else. It requires no learning and isn't really *new* to me, because as far as I can remember castrol has been around my whole life and 20w50 weight oil isn't anything new either.
Now, if it had just said "20w50 weight motor oil", well that would be a whole different story because that's not specific enough for me to be sure of anything.
Redline: everything I've read makes this sound great, so it's what I would *prefer* to use if I could afford it.
Although, I think I am probably actually missing something there because I've started to get the impression that I couldn't just buy by saying "gimme some redline." So it's like, just the brand name isn't it?
My only pricing reference has been from mentions of it's price in various posts. my impression is that it'd cost somewhere between $40 to $60 to put it in my transmission.
In the "grand scheme of things, that's a pretty darned small price to pay for "transmission insurance", but it's a matter of perspective.
For instance, a PO cut *all* of the brake hoses *and* the emergency brake cables. (all of the calipers were sitting in the passenger floorboard)
It seems the minimum price for those is around $14 each.
So, if you want to drive your car as soon as possible, do you buy brake hoses at $14 each, *or* do you spend around that much per quart of transmission oil?
Considering that filling the entire tranny with the castrol would probably cost around the price of *one* brake hose, and filling the tranny with redline would probably cost as much as the total of *all* of the the brake hoses...
Well, when it's a choice between what I want, and what I *have* to have, I'm having to prioritize things.
"What will get this car on the road soonest?" *has* to be my first priority at this point.
It probably sounds very short sighted, but you have to understand, that both money *and* tolerance are limited on this project.
In other words, if I don't get this car running as quickly as possible, *without* asking for much more money, then my funding will probably be "cut off".
I will explain my "budget" very quickly, because it's very easy.
When I got this car, "the powers that be" decided that I could start having a $40 "allowance".
$40 *a month* that is.
So like, I exceeded my "first month's allowance" in like, 2 days, just buying a couple of feet of FI rated fuel line and clamps.
and *Everything* I have bought since then has been *over budget*.
So yeah, I'm already pushing the tolerance limits of the people who control the money around here:p
Honestly, I'm at the point of asking on the FS&W forum if anybody like, upgraded their brake hoses and were going to throw away their old ones, because if I could have them for the cost of shipping, even old used hoses would be better than no hoses at all.
I managed to get some caliper rebuild kits for cheap, but I haven't even broken the news to the family yet what it's gonna cost for the hoses.
Anyway, not asking for anyone to feel sorry for me having such a limited budget or anything like that, just trying to explain the perspective that I'm having to approach the project from.
I mean, it's like, if bailing wire and electric tape could be used to fix something *for now* and will save $3, then that's gotta be the first choice because that $3 could be used for something else that's more important.
I know it's a heck of a shortsighted way to approach getting a car on the road, but if I lose funding before I get this sucker drivable, then there isn't going to be a fiat project anymore, and any sort of farsighted planning for the future would be completely wasted.
Or, in other words, thinking about the added benefits of the more expensive break lines with the flexible steel braiding on the outside would actually be counter productive on this project because I can't even afford rubber ones yet.
Nice brake lines, Super tranny oil, a paint job, new panels to replace rusty ones, etc, none of that will do this car any good if it's sent back to the junkyard because I couldn't ever get it on the road.
Anyway, back to my limited tranny oil knowledge.
MTL: to me, this sounds like a "brand name" like STP or something.
MT 90: I was thinking the old stinky gear oil was 90w oil. MT 90 sounds like the same thing in my brain.
EP: something that is bad for these transmissions, but I have no idea what does or doesn't have EP, how to know if something has EP in it, or what EP really even is.
GL1: something old. lol sorry I forgot the rest already. I think it was either the original kind of oil used, or the stinky oil. I don't even remember anything being called GL1 back in the days that I remember. Maybe they didn't call it that until there was a GL2? lol heck, I dunno. Like I said, my brain is having a real problem with this for some reason. I keep forgetting this stuff faster than I can learn it.
I do appreciate the suggestions though, I'm just sorry I can't fully understand them yet.
Oh, you mentioned those things in reference to what situations they worked best in.
Well, I can at least give a bit of a rundown of what/where the car would be used for and such.
Basically, It gets humid and hotter than heck here in the summer, and blistering cold in the winter. And I really do mean extremes of hot and cold. My wife is from Australia which is like, largely desert and half the time is apparently on fire, but she still can't believe how *hot* it gets here. And as far as cold goes, back when I did gas pipeline work, one of the days we were working around christmas the windchill hit -90. Weather here is just crazy.
The car won't be raced, but I must admit that when I used to drive fiats, I sort of always drove like I was in a race. lol
I was younger then though, didn't know I was mortal, etc. I honestly have no idea how I will drive these days because I haven't had like, my own car to drive since back before my brain was damaged over 10 years ago, and I'm not really completely the same person as I was back then, so I don't really have a frame of reference.
My goals are things like, being able to drive with my dog to the park so I can feed ducks and make him chase a ball and stuff. maybe learn how to fish again.
That park is like, 5 blocks from my house, so if the car breaks down before I get there, It's not going to be a big deal. Maybe take the dog to the fairgrounds sometimes, that's maybe 2 or 3 miles. Go to the grocery store and/or walmart, maybe 3 miles.
Really, 90% of what I want to be able to do with this car at the beginning will be within 3 to 5 miles from my house, mostly at 35 mph or less.
I suspect I might want to occasionally hit that 35 MPH far more quickly than I need to.
and
If the car seems reliable/safe enough, I would like to occasionally be able to drive to our neighboring town, which is somewhere between 9 and 12 miles. That's the only time I might want to go at a highway speeds and if the car didn't like going that fast, I could just take the old highway and get there in 24 minutes instead of 12.
So other than the weather extremes and the occasional lead footedness, my goals are pretty undemanding, simple goals.
Oh, also I'd like to be able to drive my wife around some places, instead of the dog. lol.
I just came up with goals based around the dog because he doesn't have any set sort of schedule either, and doesn't care whether it's 3 in the afternoon or 3 at night, if I am in the mood to go somewhere he is up for it as well.
The *ACTUAL* motivation behind the beginning of the project was to be able to go out in the world more often with my wife, but since she works all the time I came up with things I could do with the dog for practice.
Sort of like, start small, low pressure. lol
Anyway, yeah, it doesn't have to stand up to autocross stress, but will eventually need to be able to stand some extremes of hot and cold. right now it's still spring, so we keep bouncing from right around freezing, to up around 80. So the weather is sort of between extremes right now.
Ugh, Sorry I typed so much in response to such a simple post, but I sort of skimmed over *all* of the replies earlier and it's like my brain is trying to reply to everyone's comments at the same time.
Can't seem to seperate it out at the moment. Which just reminded me I was going to take my thyroid pill about 2 hours ago and should have been up to the anti seizure pills by this point.
No wonder I can't think straight. Sheesh.
In the future, I shall try to abbreviate myself more.
 
Funny you should mention it...

Honestly, I'm at the point of asking on the FS&W forum if anybody like, upgraded their brake hoses and were going to throw away their old ones, because if I could have them for the cost of shipping, even old used hoses would be better than no hoses at all.

I am upgrading my front brakes right now and the new ones come with new braided stainless hoses, so I was wondering what I should do with the old braided stainless hoses. PM me your mailing address and I'll send them to you.

Pete
 
Caveman lube bad for syncros

I suspect that this all might have something to do with why I eventually lost 2nd gear in my 78 x1/9 back in the mid 90's.
Of course, back then one couldn't just easily look this kind of thing up on the internet.
When I replaced the clutch, it had the stinky gear oil in it, and when I refilled it, it was with new stinky gear oil.
Man I hated the smell of that stuff. Grew up around mechanics, so most garage smells really sort of smell like "home" to me, and are a good thing.
Not that stuff though.
It was the same stuff I'd always used in my 850's, which never had any tranny problems, so I never thought twice about using it in the X1/9.
Guess I just didn't know any better.
Of course, back then, I was like "The FIAT guy" in our town. there were only like, 3 of us in the whole area and I'm pretty sure I was the one that knew the most about them, so there wasn't really anyone around here to ask either.
It's actually really refreshing to be able to talk to people that know a lot more about these cars than I do, even if half of the time it makes me feel like somewhat of a dummy:)
 
holy cow

oh man, seriously?
I just saw this because today has been so crazy that I haven't even been able to read/reply to everything everyone wrote yet.
Crazy as in, sporatic rain, wife's car broke down and trying to figure out how to fix that in the middle of this weather, while also having to try and build some "emergency shelves" to hold all my tools and parts in a place that is neither out in the rain, nor packed away in deep storage.
It's a horrible day lol.
But!, this is such good news it really makes up for it. cause I had no Idea how I was going to get any decent hoses. I was afraid I'd have to try using some old ones left over from a 124 which had already turned half to dust an probably couldn't hold pressure anyway.
tytyty.
I'll send you the info, but you'll have to tell me how to send you money for shipping. I know how to like, use paypal to buy things from online stores, but I don't know how to send money to like, a regular person. It's another thing I was going to have to learn before I could really think of using the FS&W forums.
Anyway, I'll send a pm now and hopefully things can be figured out from there.
Thanks again, and sorry to anyone else I've missed replying too today, I just haven't been able to get caught up yet.
 
wait, is it only the EP stuff that stinks?

I had gotten the impression that the old style gear oil was stinky, and that EP stuff was bad for x1/9 trannies, and that old stuff tended to also have EP stuff in it, and lastly that old style stuff in general wasn't particularly good for an X trans.
But after re-reading what you said...
Were you saying that the really bad smell was actually *caused* by the EP itself?
As in, only the gear oils with EP in them had that smell?
Just trying to connect together all the various bits of info in the right order.
Sort of having to learn about the tranny and gear oil stuff from the top down, rather than the more conventional method of familiarizing myself with the vocabulary and abbreviations and building the knowledge up from that foundational layer.
building knowledge from the top down can be a bit of a brain bender, but if the brain can't easily grasp enough of the vocab and core concepts for whatever reason then there's not much of a choice.
It's sort of like learning how to build a shelf before learning how to use a measuring tape. not necessarily impossible, but not necessarily practical either.
 
MTL and MT90 are the "types" of oil made by Redline for manual transmissions
http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7
It is much thinner, you can actually pour it! (unlike the GL1 that is like molasses in January), slightly redish and doesn't stink. Very expensive compared to the jug of GL1 I dug out of the dusty shelves at NAPA a while back, I think that was $9 for a gallon vs. $60 for the 5 quarts of Redline. But, the Redline is in my car and the GL1 isn't and ain't going back!!
 
Thanks:D

What you said and what was written on that particular page happened to be just what I needed to help fill in some gaps and link together a whole lot more of the great information and advice that everyone has been providing:)
So thank you very much for helping me become a little bit smarter so that I could better understand what you and everyone else have posted:)
 
Update

Thanks everyone, not only did you answer my original question, but you also helped me to finally understand enough about the overall subject of what tranny fluid should be used in these cars that I should be able to "help myself" again at this point.
Thank you all for helping me get over that hurdle:D
Sorry that I haven't yet answered/responded to all of the posts/questions, I just thought that first I'd better let everyone know that I'm somewhat understanding things now:)

So I don't *really* need anymore help at this time, but if anyone was curious what I ended up deciding after I will go ahead and write a post about that, because I know I always always hate it when I end up really getting caught up in an interesting thread and then right near the end where it seems like maybe they are going to get things worked out or fixed or whatever, and then suddenly you realize there's no more pages? So you never get to find out what happened. an unfinished story. Boo!.
Anyway, I doubt my thread is all that interesting, but heck, even if there is just one person that wants to know what I ended up deciding or to simply achieve a sort of closure, then I feel it's both worth it, and also somewhat of an obligation;)
I'll do it in another post though so that it's not mixed in with this one, and also because people in my house are waking up so I probably won't be able to finish the post right now.
Take care all, and thanks for everything:)
 
At this point, I'm thinking my best course of action is going to be:
1) Dump whatever is left currently in the tranny as soon as I can replace it with something else.
2) Refill it using 20w50 as a temporary solution.
3) Dump the 20w50 and replace it with redline after I've gotten the car street drivable.
My logic being this:
How much, or how little might be in the tranny right now, if it's that dang old ep stuff, it HAS to come out as soon as I can come up with anything to replace it.
The smell is apparently, at the very least, suggestive that it's ep stuff, and that is enough for me to decide that it's not really even a decision. It HAS to go, it offends my nature:p
20w50 sounds like it should be safe enough to have in the tranny for now, and is cheap/available enough that I can obtain it within a reasonable amount of time.
Honestly, the *time* element is only really a factor because it is part of the goals I have set for myself on the project.
I mean, nobody is really *depending* on me to get the car drivable this spring or by early summer, it's just a personal goal.
The dog already really likes sitting in the car, but he too can survive waiting to ride in it for a while longer.
An additional reason I'm thinking 20x50 is a good choice for now, is that until I can drive the car, I don't have a way to test it, and therefore have know way of knowing what condition it's currently it.
So it's really quite possible that I may come to find out that the the clutch is dead, or that the transaxle is already shelled or maybe has a terminal seal leak or something.
If something like that turns out to be the case, well then the 20w50 is cheap enough that I won't feel too bad if I've have to turn right around and dump it in order to pull the trans.
And lastly, filling it with MTL will be the eventual goal.
If wet heat vs dry heat affects machines the way it affects humans, then it would probably be best to switch to MT-90 during our hottest months of our year, because I'd rather be in Arizona when it's 120 degrees than on a lot of our 100 degree days.
But since I couldn't afford to switch out weights of speedline twice a year, thoughts along those lines are probably moot anyway:p
From a realistic standpoint, considering the car doesn't have air conditioning, I probably wouldn't be able to handle being out on our worst heat days anyway.
I dunno though. This project has already had me out in the sun enough that I'm already starting to get more of a tan than I've had in at least 10 years, and having to be up on my feet and moving around and pushing my limits all the time has definitely been increasing my overall health and endurance levels, so I have no idea what the future might hold.
Of course that's one of the side benefits I was hoping for when I decided to undertake this project.
I *knew* I wouldn't fix a FIAT from my couch;)
Thanks again everyone for your comments, help, and suggestions.
Every little bump you guys have helped me get over has increased the chance of success of my crazy little project:)
Hope you all have a good Easter!
~~^_^
 
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